Crochet sweater “Livia”
Crochet a Cozy Sweater That’s Easy to Adjust in Size
Have you seen our Linnea Cardigan? This is a variation of Linnea, but as a sweater. You can choose how long and how wide you want your sweater to be. This is a made-to-measure pattern, meaning you measure on yourself as you go. You can use a 6 mm or 7 mm crochet hook—both work well. We used the color Bright Blue in the sweater shown in the photo.
Yarn Consumption: For a sweater approximately the same size as the one in the photo (size M), you'll need about 8–9 skeins of MYO Basic Wool. If you want to make a larger size, estimate 1 extra skein per size up. This is an approximate amount and will depend on the length, width, and sleeve size you choose to crochet.
Note: This pattern uses videos from our technique library for additional guidance.
This is what you need:
Here you can directly purchase the material for the product. Please note that the instruction is digital and appears here on the page (no written instruction).
Here's how to do it
If you want to watch a video on how to crochet granny stripes, you can check out the Linnea Cardigan. We’ll be crocheting in almost the same way as Linnea, but instead of one back piece and two front pieces, we’ll now crochet two “back pieces.” So if you need video guidance, you can follow Linnea’s video for the back piece and simply crochet two of them to create both the front and back of the sweater. You can also follow the video for assembly and how to crochet the sleeves. / Lizette
We’ll start by crocheting the back and front panels of the sweater. Then we’ll join those two pieces together before moving on to the sleeves. Finally, we’ll crochet a border around the neckline of the sweater.
As mentioned above, you can refer to the Linnea video and simply crochet two back panels.
BACK & FRONT – two identical panels
Start by making a slip knot on your hook. If you’re unsure how to do this, see the video below.
The Chain
Now we’re going to start by crocheting the foundation chain. If you’re unsure how to crochet a chain, see the video below.
To determine how many chains you need:
Measure from shoulder to shoulder across the front of your body, then add a few extra stitches. If you want a more oversized fit, simply chain more.
The total number of chains should be divisible by 3, plus 1 extra stitch. For example, 48 is divisible by 3, and adding 1 makes 49.
Once you've decided on the number of stitches, add one more chain, then turn your work.
In the Linnea video, they use 50 chains (approx. size S) for the back panel. For the blue sweater in the photos, 62 chains were used (60 is divisible by 3, +1 = 61, and then 1 more turning chain makes 62).
Keep in mind that tension varies between people, so it’s important to measure against your own body as you go. You can also remeasure after a few rows to make sure it still fits as expected.
The reason for measuring as you go is that tight crocheters might need more chains than someone who crochets more loosely. If you crochet tightly, you can also consider using a larger hook size.
Row 2
Now you're going to work your way back along the chain and crochet single crochets. Skip the first chain (the one on your hook), start your first single crochet in the 2nd chain from the hook. Continue to single crochet in each chain across the row.
When you reach the end of the row: Chain 3 (this will count as your first double crochet for the next row). Turn your work and continue to Row 3.
If you're unsure how to make single crochet stitches, see the video tutorial below.
Row 3
Now that you've turned your work, we're going to start working back using double crochets. Skip the first 3 stitches (they’re covered by the ch 3 you made at the end of Row 2 — this counts as your first double crochet). Make 1 double crochet in the 4th stitch from the hook (so now you have one actual dc and one "dc" from the chain).
You now have 2 double crochets in total, occupying the same stitch (the 4th one). If you're unsure how to crochet a double crochet, check the video tutorial below.
b. Skip 2 stitches, then work 3 double crochets into the next stitch. Repeat this pattern *skip 2 stitches, 3 dc in next stitch* until you have 3 stitches left.
c. Skip 2 stitches, and work 2 double crochets in the last stitch. Then chain 3 and turn your work — this begins the next row.
Row 4
Now that you've turned your work, you’ll crochet back across: Make 3 double crochets into the next space (this is the space between the groups of 3 double crochets from the previous row). Continue making 3 double crochets into each space across the row. When you reach the last space, make 3 double crochets into that last space. After that, you’ll see a small gap between the last two double crochets from the previous row — place 1 doublecrochets into that gap (this completes the edge). Chain 3 and turn your work.
Row 5
You’re continuing the granny stripe pattern, alternating between this row and Row 4.
Make 1 double crochet (dc) into the small gap between the ch-3 and first group of 3 dc from the previous row. Make 3 dc into each space across the row, as before. When you reach the last space (between the last group of 3 dc and the turning chain from the previous row), make 2 dc into that space. Chain 3 and turn your work.
Row 6
On the last row of the back piece, chain 1 and turn your work. Then crochet 1 single crochet in each stitch across the row. Cut the yarn and fasten off both the starting and ending yarn tails.
Crochet another piece of the same size with the same number of starting chains as you just crocheted.
Try holding the pieces together on yourself to make sure you’re happy with the fit.
ASSEMBLY
If you want the seams on the outside: Lay the nicest side of the back piece facing down and place the front piece (right side up) on top of the back.
If you want the seams on the inside: Lay the right side of the back piece facing up and place the two right sides of the front pieces facing down on top of the back.
We will crochet the front and back pieces together at the top. We will leave an opening for the head.
Start with a slip knot in the top stitch on one side. Crochet through both the front and back pieces. From now on, insert your hook into the back loop of the front piece and the front loop of the back piece, and crochet slip stitches. Continue until you reach where you want the opening for the head to begin. Then crochet the same way from the other side.
Fasten off the yarn ends.
If you’re unsure how to work with this technique, see the video below (Attach squares in inner loops).
Note: The video shows single crochet stitches, but we use slip stitches. You can watch this first video just to see which loops to work into. If you’re unsure how to crochet slip stitches, see the video below.
The next step in assembly is to crochet the sides of the back and front pieces together, leaving an opening for the armhole.
Start at the bottom of the sweater and crochet the back and front pieces together, using the same technique you used to join the top part. Remember not to crochet all the way up—leave a gap for the sleeve.
Try on the sweater to make sure you’re happy with the size of the armhole opening, and stop crocheting when the opening is the size you want.
Do the same on the other side and check that both openings are the same size and that you’re happy before continuing.
Fasten off the yarn ends.
SLEEVES
This step is the same as the crocheted sleeves on the Linnea cardigan. Check that video if you’re unsure.
Round 1 (Sleeve):
Now we’ll start crocheting a sleeve. Make a slip knot around your hook and insert your hook into a hole in the armhole, grab yarn and pull through immediately.
Now we start the first sleeve. Chain 3, then crochet 2 double crochets. Crochet 3 double crochet in each hole around until you’re back at the start. There are several holes along the armhole—make sure to crochet into the bigger holes (watch the Linnea cardigan video if you’re unsure). If you crochet into all holes, it will be too big.
When you get back to the beginning, insert your hook into the third chain you made at the start and make a slip stitch to join.
Round 2 (Sleeve):
Now you need to move to the next hole. Slip stitch until you reach the next hole. When you get there, chain 3 and crochet 2 double crochet. Then crochet 3 double crochet in each hole. Finish the round the same way as the previous round.
Continue like round 2 on the sleeve until you have the desired length. Try the sweater on during the process.
Final round (Sleeve):
When you’re happy with the size, crochet a finishing round on the sleeve. For the last round, do not chain at the beginning. Crochet a single crochet in each stitch. Finish off as we have done before.
Repeat the same for the other sleeve.
Sweater Finishing Round:
It looks nice to finish the sweater by crocheting a finishing round along the bottom edge and around the neckline.
Crochet single crochets evenly along the bottom edge of the sweater. Then fasten off the yarn.
Also crochet one round of single crochets around the neckline. In the two stitches at the edges of the neckline, crochet 2 single crochets in each stitch. This gives a more balanced and polished look.
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You are done :)
Abbreviations
We are going to crochet a lovely sweater in our MYO Basic yarn! This is the version with crochet terms. You can always switch back to the simpler version if you need help along the way.
MR = magic ring
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
inc = increase (two stitches in the same stitch)
dc = double crochet
blo = back loop only
flo = front loop only
dc cluster (dc grp) = cluster of 3 double crochets in the same stitch
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet
(....) = indicates the number of stitches in the round
*...* = repeat everything between the ... the indicated number of times
[....] = everything inside the brackets is worked in the same stitch
If you need help with pictures along the way, switch to the simpler instructions or check out the video for the Linnea cardigan (the difference is in the front pieces).
Back & Front Pieces
To figure out how many chains you need, measure from shoulder to shoulder on the front of your body and add a few extra stitches. If you want a more oversized fit, crochet more chains. The total number of stitches should be divisible by 3 + 1 (for example, 48 is divisible by 3 + 1).
Once you have your stitch count, add one extra chain and then turn your work. In the Linnea video, 50 chains were used for the back piece (approx size S), and the blue sweater in the pictures uses 62 chains (60 is divisible by 3, plus 1 = 61, and one extra chain makes 62).
Keep in mind that everyone crochets with different tension, so you should measure yourself while working. You can also measure again after a few rows to make sure the size is still good.
The reason for measuring yourself during the process is because different tensions affect the size. For example, 50 chains may not be enough for a size S if you crochet tightly. If you crochet tightly, you can also use a larger hook size.
Row 1: Ch 62, turn. (62)
Row 2: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (61)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in 4th ch from hook, *skip 2 sts, dc cluster (3 dc in same st)*, repeat *…* until 3 sts remain. Skip 2 sts, 2 dc in last st, turn. (61)
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *dc cluster in the space between clusters from previous row*, repeat *…* until 1 st remains. Dc in last st, turn. (61)
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in the space between the last dc and last cluster from previous row, *dc cluster in the space between clusters from previous row*, repeat *…* until 1 st remains. 2 dc in last st, turn. (61)
Repeat Rows 4-5 until you reach desired length for back piece. End the last row with 1 ch.
Last row: Sc in each st, finish off and weave in ends.
Make another piece the same way.
Assembly of Back and Front Pieces
If you want seams on the outside: Place the right side of the back piece facing down, then lay the two front pieces (right sides up) on top of the back.
If you want seams on the inside: Place the right side of the back piece facing up, then lay the two front pieces on the back, with the right sides facing down.
We will join the front and back pieces at the top, leaving an opening for the neck. Start at the top stitch on one side. Insert your hook through both front and back pieces. From now on, insert your hook into the blo on the front piece and the flo on the back piece, and sl st through both loops. Continue until you reach where you want the neck opening to start. Repeat the same process on the other side of the neck opening. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Joining the Sides and Leaving an Armhole Opening
Starting at the bottom of the sweater, join the back and front pieces together on the sides using the same sl st method as for the top. Remember not to crochet all the way up—leave an opening for the armhole. Try on the sweater to check if the armhole opening size feels good. Stop when you’ve reached the desired armhole size. Repeat on the other side, making sure both armholes are the same size and you’re happy with the fit. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Sleeves
The sleeves are worked directly into the armhole openings you left when joining the front and back pieces.
Round 1: Join yarn with a sl st in the bottom of the armhole. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in the same “hole,” skip the next hole, 1 dc group (3 dc in the same stitch) in the next hole. Repeat this sequence until you reach the starting point. Sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning chain-3 to close the round.
Round 2: Make 2 sl st until you reach the first hole. Ch 3, 2 dc in the same “hole,” then 1 dc group in the space between each dc group on the previous round. Repeat this sequence until you come back to the start.
Continue working rounds the same way as Round 2 until you reach the desired sleeve length. Try on the sweater during the process.
Last round: Work 1 sc in each st around. Finish off and weave in ends.
Sweater Finishing Round
To nicely finish the sweater, crochet a finishing round along the bottom edge and around the neckline. Work sc along the bottom edge of the sweater. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Work 1 round of sc around the neckline. On each side edge of the neckline, there are two stitches where you work 2 sc in the same stitch. This will create 4 increases total, giving a more balanced look.
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You are done :)
We’ll start by crocheting the back and front panels of the sweater. Then we’ll join those two pieces together before moving on to the sleeves. Finally, we’ll crochet a border around the neckline of the sweater.
As mentioned above, you can refer to the Linnea video and simply crochet two back panels.
BACK & FRONT – two identical panels
Start by making a slip knot on your hook. If you’re unsure how to do this, see the video below.
The Chain
Now we’re going to start by crocheting the foundation chain. If you’re unsure how to crochet a chain, see the video below.
To determine how many chains you need:
Measure from shoulder to shoulder across the front of your body, then add a few extra stitches. If you want a more oversized fit, simply chain more.
The total number of chains should be divisible by 3, plus 1 extra stitch. For example, 48 is divisible by 3, and adding 1 makes 49.
Once you've decided on the number of stitches, add one more chain, then turn your work.
In the Linnea video, they use 50 chains (approx. size S) for the back panel. For the blue sweater in the photos, 62 chains were used (60 is divisible by 3, +1 = 61, and then 1 more turning chain makes 62).
Keep in mind that tension varies between people, so it’s important to measure against your own body as you go. You can also remeasure after a few rows to make sure it still fits as expected.
The reason for measuring as you go is that tight crocheters might need more chains than someone who crochets more loosely. If you crochet tightly, you can also consider using a larger hook size.
Row 2
Now you're going to work your way back along the chain and crochet single crochets. Skip the first chain (the one on your hook), start your first single crochet in the 2nd chain from the hook. Continue to single crochet in each chain across the row.
When you reach the end of the row: Chain 3 (this will count as your first double crochet for the next row). Turn your work and continue to Row 3.
If you're unsure how to make single crochet stitches, see the video tutorial below.
Row 3
Now that you've turned your work, we're going to start working back using double crochets. Skip the first 3 stitches (they’re covered by the ch 3 you made at the end of Row 2 — this counts as your first double crochet). Make 1 double crochet in the 4th stitch from the hook (so now you have one actual dc and one "dc" from the chain).
You now have 2 double crochets in total, occupying the same stitch (the 4th one). If you're unsure how to crochet a double crochet, check the video tutorial below.
b. Skip 2 stitches, then work 3 double crochets into the next stitch. Repeat this pattern *skip 2 stitches, 3 dc in next stitch* until you have 3 stitches left.
c. Skip 2 stitches, and work 2 double crochets in the last stitch. Then chain 3 and turn your work — this begins the next row.
Row 4
Now that you've turned your work, you’ll crochet back across: Make 3 double crochets into the next space (this is the space between the groups of 3 double crochets from the previous row). Continue making 3 double crochets into each space across the row. When you reach the last space, make 3 double crochets into that last space. After that, you’ll see a small gap between the last two double crochets from the previous row — place 1 doublecrochets into that gap (this completes the edge). Chain 3 and turn your work.
Row 5
You’re continuing the granny stripe pattern, alternating between this row and Row 4.
Make 1 double crochet (dc) into the small gap between the ch-3 and first group of 3 dc from the previous row. Make 3 dc into each space across the row, as before. When you reach the last space (between the last group of 3 dc and the turning chain from the previous row), make 2 dc into that space. Chain 3 and turn your work.
Row 6
On the last row of the back piece, chain 1 and turn your work. Then crochet 1 single crochet in each stitch across the row. Cut the yarn and fasten off both the starting and ending yarn tails.
Crochet another piece of the same size with the same number of starting chains as you just crocheted.
Try holding the pieces together on yourself to make sure you’re happy with the fit.
ASSEMBLY
If you want the seams on the outside: Lay the nicest side of the back piece facing down and place the front piece (right side up) on top of the back.
If you want the seams on the inside: Lay the right side of the back piece facing up and place the two right sides of the front pieces facing down on top of the back.
We will crochet the front and back pieces together at the top. We will leave an opening for the head.
Start with a slip knot in the top stitch on one side. Crochet through both the front and back pieces. From now on, insert your hook into the back loop of the front piece and the front loop of the back piece, and crochet slip stitches. Continue until you reach where you want the opening for the head to begin. Then crochet the same way from the other side.
Fasten off the yarn ends.
If you’re unsure how to work with this technique, see the video below (Attach squares in inner loops).
Note: The video shows single crochet stitches, but we use slip stitches. You can watch this first video just to see which loops to work into. If you’re unsure how to crochet slip stitches, see the video below.
The next step in assembly is to crochet the sides of the back and front pieces together, leaving an opening for the armhole.
Start at the bottom of the sweater and crochet the back and front pieces together, using the same technique you used to join the top part. Remember not to crochet all the way up—leave a gap for the sleeve.
Try on the sweater to make sure you’re happy with the size of the armhole opening, and stop crocheting when the opening is the size you want.
Do the same on the other side and check that both openings are the same size and that you’re happy before continuing.
Fasten off the yarn ends.
SLEEVES
This step is the same as the crocheted sleeves on the Linnea cardigan. Check that video if you’re unsure.
Round 1 (Sleeve):
Now we’ll start crocheting a sleeve. Make a slip knot around your hook and insert your hook into a hole in the armhole, grab yarn and pull through immediately.
Now we start the first sleeve. Chain 3, then crochet 2 double crochets. Crochet 3 double crochet in each hole around until you’re back at the start. There are several holes along the armhole—make sure to crochet into the bigger holes (watch the Linnea cardigan video if you’re unsure). If you crochet into all holes, it will be too big.
When you get back to the beginning, insert your hook into the third chain you made at the start and make a slip stitch to join.
Round 2 (Sleeve):
Now you need to move to the next hole. Slip stitch until you reach the next hole. When you get there, chain 3 and crochet 2 double crochet. Then crochet 3 double crochet in each hole. Finish the round the same way as the previous round.
Continue like round 2 on the sleeve until you have the desired length. Try the sweater on during the process.
Final round (Sleeve):
When you’re happy with the size, crochet a finishing round on the sleeve. For the last round, do not chain at the beginning. Crochet a single crochet in each stitch. Finish off as we have done before.
Repeat the same for the other sleeve.
Sweater Finishing Round:
It looks nice to finish the sweater by crocheting a finishing round along the bottom edge and around the neckline.
Crochet single crochets evenly along the bottom edge of the sweater. Then fasten off the yarn.
Also crochet one round of single crochets around the neckline. In the two stitches at the edges of the neckline, crochet 2 single crochets in each stitch. This gives a more balanced and polished look.
You are done :)
Abbreviations
We are going to crochet a lovely sweater in our MYO Basic yarn! This is the version with crochet terms. You can always switch back to the simpler version if you need help along the way.
MR = magic ring
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
inc = increase (two stitches in the same stitch)
dc = double crochet
blo = back loop only
flo = front loop only
dc cluster (dc grp) = cluster of 3 double crochets in the same stitch
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet
(....) = indicates the number of stitches in the round
*...* = repeat everything between the ... the indicated number of times
[....] = everything inside the brackets is worked in the same stitch
If you need help with pictures along the way, switch to the simpler instructions or check out the video for the Linnea cardigan (the difference is in the front pieces).
Back & Front Pieces
To figure out how many chains you need, measure from shoulder to shoulder on the front of your body and add a few extra stitches. If you want a more oversized fit, crochet more chains. The total number of stitches should be divisible by 3 + 1 (for example, 48 is divisible by 3 + 1).
Once you have your stitch count, add one extra chain and then turn your work. In the Linnea video, 50 chains were used for the back piece (approx size S), and the blue sweater in the pictures uses 62 chains (60 is divisible by 3, plus 1 = 61, and one extra chain makes 62).
Keep in mind that everyone crochets with different tension, so you should measure yourself while working. You can also measure again after a few rows to make sure the size is still good.
The reason for measuring yourself during the process is because different tensions affect the size. For example, 50 chains may not be enough for a size S if you crochet tightly. If you crochet tightly, you can also use a larger hook size.
Row 1: Ch 62, turn. (62)
Row 2: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (61)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in 4th ch from hook, *skip 2 sts, dc cluster (3 dc in same st)*, repeat *…* until 3 sts remain. Skip 2 sts, 2 dc in last st, turn. (61)
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *dc cluster in the space between clusters from previous row*, repeat *…* until 1 st remains. Dc in last st, turn. (61)
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in the space between the last dc and last cluster from previous row, *dc cluster in the space between clusters from previous row*, repeat *…* until 1 st remains. 2 dc in last st, turn. (61)
Repeat Rows 4-5 until you reach desired length for back piece. End the last row with 1 ch.
Last row: Sc in each st, finish off and weave in ends.
Make another piece the same way.
Assembly of Back and Front Pieces
If you want seams on the outside: Place the right side of the back piece facing down, then lay the two front pieces (right sides up) on top of the back.
If you want seams on the inside: Place the right side of the back piece facing up, then lay the two front pieces on the back, with the right sides facing down.
We will join the front and back pieces at the top, leaving an opening for the neck. Start at the top stitch on one side. Insert your hook through both front and back pieces. From now on, insert your hook into the blo on the front piece and the flo on the back piece, and sl st through both loops. Continue until you reach where you want the neck opening to start. Repeat the same process on the other side of the neck opening. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Joining the Sides and Leaving an Armhole Opening
Starting at the bottom of the sweater, join the back and front pieces together on the sides using the same sl st method as for the top. Remember not to crochet all the way up—leave an opening for the armhole. Try on the sweater to check if the armhole opening size feels good. Stop when you’ve reached the desired armhole size. Repeat on the other side, making sure both armholes are the same size and you’re happy with the fit. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Sleeves
The sleeves are worked directly into the armhole openings you left when joining the front and back pieces.
Round 1: Join yarn with a sl st in the bottom of the armhole. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in the same “hole,” skip the next hole, 1 dc group (3 dc in the same stitch) in the next hole. Repeat this sequence until you reach the starting point. Sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning chain-3 to close the round.
Round 2: Make 2 sl st until you reach the first hole. Ch 3, 2 dc in the same “hole,” then 1 dc group in the space between each dc group on the previous round. Repeat this sequence until you come back to the start.
Continue working rounds the same way as Round 2 until you reach the desired sleeve length. Try on the sweater during the process.
Last round: Work 1 sc in each st around. Finish off and weave in ends.
Sweater Finishing Round
To nicely finish the sweater, crochet a finishing round along the bottom edge and around the neckline. Work sc along the bottom edge of the sweater. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Work 1 round of sc around the neckline. On each side edge of the neckline, there are two stitches where you work 2 sc in the same stitch. This will create 4 increases total, giving a more balanced look.
You are done :)
The rights to this pattern belong to MYO Make Your Own. The pattern or its pictures may not be copied, shared or resold either in parts or in its entirety, but you may sell items you have crocheted from this pattern. If you have questions about the pattern, contact MYO at hello@makeyourown.se.
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