Sweater “Vidar”
Crochet a nice sweater for men (unisex).
Finally we can present a sweatshirt for men/unisex! The sweater is crocheted in MYO Basic wool which makes it warm. The sweater is made in sizes for men but it is unisex and can be used by everyone. Surprise your partner, husband, brother or friend with this nice sweater. Sizes available in the pattern are S, M, L, XL, XXL. You will need MYO Basic wool and crochet hook 6 mm. Other things that are good to have are markers, needle and tape measure.
Yarn Consumption: 10 skeins of Basic wool for size S-M, 11 skeins for size L and 12 skeins for size XL-XXL.
Note that we in this instruction uses videos from out technique library.
Here's how to do it
This pattern is crocheted 'top-down,' and the sweater is made without any seams. You start with the ribbing around the neck, and then we’ll gradually increase until you reach the sleeves. Continue with the yoke until you have enough increases for the chest/back. The sleeves are worked directly around the armhole opening. All sizes have the same size collar and neck opening. Work the pullover in rounds until the desired size is achieved. The pattern is written for size M. Hope you enjoy this sweater! /Johanna K
This is what you need:
Here you can directly purchase the material for the product. Please note that the instruction is digital and appears here on the page (no written instruction).
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Sizes
The sizes are based on measurements when the sweater is laid flat (cm):
Total length/width (from armpit to armpit)/neckline/sleeve length (from armpit to end of ribbing)
- Small: 64 / 47 / 23 / 53
- Medium: 64 / 51 / 23 / 53
- Large: 64 / 55 / 23 / 53
- X-Large: 64 / 59 / 24.5 / 55
- XXL: 64 / 63 / 24.5 / 55
If you want a looser fit, choose a larger size. If you'd like a longer sweater, crochet additional rounds.
- The 2 chain stitches at the beginning of each round do not count as a stitch. Likewise, 1 chain stitch at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.
- The entire garment is worked in rounds (except for the ribbing). At the end of each round, finish with a slip stitch and always turn your work.
Increases on the Raglan Yoke:
Round 1 after the neckline is the row where we begin the increases. In this round, increase by only 4 stitches. After that, there will be 8 increases per row. Then it will go back to only 4 increases per row again. Increases are made because we start the sweater from the top and work downward, so we need increases to allow the sweater to grow in size.
The increases are made with V-stitches. After round 1, these V-stitches are made in the chain space from the previous V-stitch. A V-stitch is made by crocheting 1 double crochet, 2 chains, and 1 double crochet in the same stitch (alternatively, 1 single crochet, 2 chains, 1 single crochet).
Neck Ribbing
Notes: You can adjust the width of the neck ribbing by crocheting more or fewer chain stitches.
Row 1 (wrong side): Chain 5. Turn and, starting in the second chain from the hook, crochet 1 single crochet in each chain stitch. Turn. You should have a total of 4 stitches. If you're unsure how to make a slip knot, chain stitches, or single crochet, see the videos provided at the end.
Row 2 (right side): Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch here or in the following rows). Make 1 single crochet in the back loop of each stitch. Turn. You should have a total of 4 stitches. If you're unsure how to crochet in the back loop only, see the video below.
Rows 3-68 [68, 68, 76, 76, 76]: Repeat row 2. After the last row, chain 1. Fold the collar with the right side facing out and join the first and last rows with 4 slip stitches (working through the back loop). Turn the collar so that the seam is on the inside. If you're unsure how to make slip stitches, see the video below.
Make one single crochet in each row of the neck ribbing. You should have a total of [68, 68, 76, 76, 76] stitches.
Beginning of the Yoke
Note! In round 1, crochet double crochets in the back loop only. This is only done on the first round to create a detail along the neckline. If you don’t want an extra detail at the neckline, you can place the double crochets through both loops on this round as well.
We will now start crocheting V-stitches to begin the yoke and increase the number of stitches. A tip is to mark all V-stitches so they’re easier to see. Note that the V-stitches in this pattern use two chain stitches instead of one, as shown in the video.
Round 1: Chain 2, turn. Crochet [8, 8, 9, 9, 9] double crochets in the back loop only. Then make one V-stitch (double crochet, chain 2, double crochet in the same stitch). Continue crocheting double crochets in the back loop only for a total of [16, 16, 18, 18, 18] stitches. Make another V-stitch. Crochet double crochets in the back loop only for a total of [16, 16, 18, 18, 18] stitches. Make the third V-stitch. Crochet double crochets in the back loop only for a total of [16, 16, 18, 18, 18] stitches. Make the last V-stitch, then continue with double crochets in the back loop only for a total of [8, 8, 9, 9, 9] stitches. Finish with a slip stitch into the first double crochet of the row. You should have a total of [72, 72, 80, 80, 80] stitches. You have increased by 4 stitches.
If you're unsure how to crochet double crochets or V-stitches, see the videos below.
Row 2: Chain 1 and turn. Crochet single crochets only in the back loop only. Continue until you reach the two chain stitches that you made in your V-stitches. There, make one V-stitch (1 single crochet, 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet) in the chain space. Repeat this until you are back at the start. Finish with a slip stitch in the first double crochet. You have increased by 8 stitches in this row. You will have a total of [80, 80, 88, 88, 88] stitches.
Note: The rounds with single crochet are worked in the back loop only throughout the entire pattern. The chain stitches in the V-stitch is not counted as a stitch.
Row 3: Chain 2 and turn. Crochet double crochets to the next chain space. Make a V-stitch there. Continue crocheting in the same manner: double crochets in all stitches until you reach the V-stitches, where you will crochet another V-stitch. Finish with a slip stitch in the first stitch. You will increase by 8 stitches, and you will have a total of [88, 88, 96, 96, 96] stitches.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 a total of [13, 15, 17, 19, 21] times (as many as you need for the size you are crocheting). Finish with a round of single crochets. If you want to know how many stitches there will be in each round, see Step 4.
Number of stitches per round. Number of rounds depends on the size you are crocheting.
Small: 13 rounds
Medium: 15 rounds
Large: 17 rounds
Xtra Large: 19 rounds
XX-large: 21 rounds
- Round 4: [96, 96, 104, 104, 104]
- Round 5: [104, 104, 112, 112, 112]
- Round 6: [112, 112, 120, 120, 120]
- Round 7: [120, 120, 128, 128, 128]
- Round 8: [128, 128, 136, 136, 136]
- Round 9: [136, 136, 144, 144, 144]
- Round 10: [144, 144, 152, 152, 152]
- Round 11: [152, 152, 160, 160, 160]
- Round 12: [160, 160, 168, 168, 168]
- Round 13: Small [168, 168, 176, 176, 176]
- Round 14: [176, 184, 184, 184]
- Round 15: Medium [184, 192, 192, 192]
- Round 16: [200, 200, 200]
- Round 17: Large [208, 208, 208]
- Round 18: [216, 216]
- Round 19: XL [224, 224]
- Round 20: [232]
- Round 21: XXL [240]
Note! Test your sweater as you crochet to ensure it fits. If you feel it is too large, follow the size smaller.
Continuation of the Yoke
Note! In this section, we will no longer increase by 8 stitches, but only by 4 stitches per round. The increases are made only for the front and back sections. We will not increase further at the sleeves.
Round [14, 16, 18, 20, 22]: Chain 1 and turn. Then crochet single crochets in the back loop only until you reach the chain space. There, make one single crochet in the chain space. Chain 2. Then crochet single crochets in the back loop only until you reach the second chain space; make 2 chain stitches. Crochet one single crochet in the chain space.
Continue crocheting single crochets in the back loop only until you reach the third chain space. There, make one single crochet in the chain space. Chain 2. Then crochet single crochets in the back loop only until you reach the fourth chain space; make 2 chain stitches. Crochet one single crochet in the chain space. Crochet in the back loop until you are back at the start. Finish with a slip stitch.
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Round [15, 17, 19, 21, 23]: Start with chain two, then repeat as the previous round, BUT use double crochets instead of single crochets. You will have increased by 4 stitches. In total, you will have [176, 192, 216, 232, 240] stitches.
Armholes
Now we will divide the work a bit to create armholes.
Round [16, 18, 20, 22, 24]: Chain 1 and turn. Crochet single crochet stitches in the back loop only up to the first chain stitch space from the previous row. Crochet 1 single crochet in the chain space. Crochet [5, 7, 9, 9, 9] chain stitches (a chain of stitches). Skip all stitches until the second chain stitch space. In that space, crochet 1 single crochet. Continue crocheting single crochet stitches in the back loop only until the third chain stitch space and crochet 1 single crochet in that space. Ch 5. Skip all stitches again until the fourth chain stitch space and crochet 1 single crochet in that space. Then crochet single crochet stitches in the back loop only in the remaining stitches. Finish with a slip stitch in the first stitch. In total, you will have [94, 106, 118, 130, 130] stitches.
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Continuation of the Sweater
Round [17, 19, 21, 23, 25]: Chain 2 and turn. Crochet double crochets. When you reach the chain stitches that you made, crochet 1 double crochet in each of the chain stitches you crocheted in previous round. Finish with a slip stitch in the first stitch. In total, you will have [104, 120, 132, 148, 148] stitches.
Round [18, 20, 22, 24, 26]: Chain 1 and turn. Crochet single crochets in the back loop all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch. In total, you will have [104, 120, 132, 148, 148] stitches.
Rounds [19, 21, 23, 25, 27] – 51 (or until you reach the desired length): Repeat the rounds with double crochets and single crochets in the back loop.
Size Note: Try on as you go! If you want a longer or shorter sweater, add or remove rounds in multiples of two until the desired length is reached.
Round 52: Chain 1 and turn. Crochet single crochets in both loops all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch in the first stitch.
Ribbing on the Sweater
Note: You can change the width of the ribbing by crocheting more or fewer chain stitches.
Chain 7 and turn.
Row 1: Do not chain 1 when you turn. Begin in the 2nd chain and crochet single crochets to the end. Crochet 2 slip stitches along the bottom edge of the sweater. Turn.
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Row 2: Do not chain 1, skip the 2 slip stitches that you just crocheted along the bottom edge of the sweater. Crochet 6 slip stitches in the back loop. Chain 1 and turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 around the entire sweater. Secure the beginning and end of the ribbing in the same way as with the neck ribbing.
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Sleeves, Two Pieces
Round 1: Attach the yarn in the middle chain you made when you divided for the armholes (so that you start right under the armhole). Chain 2 and crochet a double crochet in the same stitch. Continue with double crochets for a total of [2, 3, 3, 4, 4] until you reach the first V-stitch. Skip the V-stitch and continue with double crochets for a total of [44, 48, 54, 58, 62] until you reach the next V-stitch. Again, skip the V-stitch. Continue with [2, 3, 3, 4, 4] stitches. Finish with a slip stitch into the first double crochet. In total, you will have [49, 55, 61, 67, 71] stitches.
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Round 2: Chain 1, turn. Crochet single crochets in the back loop all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch.
Round 3: Chain 2, turn. Crochet 1 double crochet in each stitch all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch.
Rounds 4-10: Repeat rounds 2 and 3. Finish with a round of double crochets.
Note! If you prefer a non-shaped sleeve, you can continue repeating the rounds until you reach the desired sleeve length before adding the cuff. If you want to shape the sleeve, follow the instructions below.
Size Adjustment: Try it on as you go! If you want a longer or shorter sleeve, repeat rounds 1 and 2 more/less times here before continuing.
Shaping the Sleeve
If you want to shape the sleeve, we will make decreases in the rounds to taper the sleeve towards the cuff. Decreases are made in every round with single crochets in the front loop if starting with the wrong side. If you start with the right side up, crochet in the back loop so that the pattern will be the same as the body. You should only make your decreases in the first two stitches of the round to keep the sleeve seam even.
Round 11: Chain 1 and turn. Make a decrease. Crochet single crochets in the front loop all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch into the first stitch. If you're unsure how to make a decrease, see the video below.
Round 12: Chain 2 and turn. Crochet 1 double crochet in each stitch all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch into the first stitch.
Rounds 13-31: Repeat rounds 11 and 12. Finish with a round of single crochets in the front loop. When you finish the last decrease round, you will have a total of [39, 45, 51, 57, 61] stitches.
Cuff of the Sleeve
You need to shape the end of the sleeve further so that it fits snugly around the wrist. You decide how many decreases you want to make to achieve the right shape. The following instructions will give a slightly looser opening.
Round 32: Work in both loops for this round. Crochet 4 decreases evenly spaced around the round (applies to all sizes).
Cuff
You will work the cuff part in the same way as you did with the lower ribbing of the sweater. You can make more or fewer chain stitches depending on how wide you want the cuff to be.
Crochet 7 chain stitches and turn.
Row 1: Start in the 2nd stitch and crochet single crochets to the end. Crochet 2 slip stitches along the bottom edge of the sleeve. Turn.
Row 2: Do not chain 1, skip the 2 slip stitches along the bottom edge of the sleeve. Crochet 6 slip stitches in the back loop. Chain 1 and turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 around the entire sleeve end. Secure the beginning and end of the ribbing the same way as with the neck ribbing.
Fasten off all yarn ends, see below video for guidance.
If you have any more questions or need further assistance, just let me know! Good luck, and I hope you’re pleased with your sweater! :)
Description Using US Crochet Terms
This part of the pattern uses crochet terminology. If you need help, refer to the simpler section.
ABBREVIATIONS
ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (2 double crochets/stitches in the same stitch)
sl st = slip stitch
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
Sizes
Measurements are based on the sweater laid flat (cm):
Total length / Width (armpit to armpit) / Neck opening / Sleeve length (armpit to end of ribbing)
Small: 64 / 47 / 23 / 53
Medium: 64 / 51 / 23 / 53
Large: 64 / 55 / 23 / 53
XL: 64 / 59 / 24.5 / 55
XXL: 64 / 63 / 24.5 / 55
If you prefer a looser fit, choose one size larger. If you want a longer sweater, simply crochet more rounds.
- The 2 ch at the beginning of each round do not count as a stitch. The same applies to 1 ch at the beginning of a round.
- The entire garment is worked in rounds. At the end of each round, join with a sl st and always turn your work.
- Raglan increases on the yoke: Round 1 after the neckline is where we begin increasing. In this round, only 4 stitches are increased. After that, the increases will be 8 stitches per round. Later, this will change back to only 4 increases per round. The increases are necessary because the sweater is worked from the top down, so stitches must be added to make the sweater grow in size.
- The increases are made using V-stitches. After Round 1, work these V-stitches into the ch-space of the previous V-stitch. A V-stitch is made by working 1 dc, ch 2, and 1 dc into the same stitch (alternatively, 1 sc, ch 2, and 1 sc).
Neck Ribbing
Notes: You can adjust the width of the neck ribbing by chaining more or fewer stitches.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 5. Turn and starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work 1 sc in each ch. Turn. You now have 4 sts.
Row 2 (RS): Ch 1 (this does not count as a stitch here or throughout the pattern). Work 1 sc in the BLO of each st. Turn. You now have 4 sts.
Rows 3–68 [68, 68, 76, 76, 76]: Repeat Row 2. After the final row, ch 1. Fold the collar with the right side facing out and join the first and last rows with 4 sl sts (working through the BLO). Turn the collar so that the seam is on the inside.
Work 1 sc into each row of the neck ribbing. You should have [68, 68, 76, 76, 76] sts in total. Join the round with a sl st.
Beginning of the Yoke
NOTE! On Round 1, work the dc stitches in the BLO. This is only done on the first round to create a decorative detail along the neckline. If you do not want this extra detail along the neckline, you can work the dc stitches through both loops on this round as well.
We will now begin working V-stitches to start the yoke and increase the number of stitches. A helpful tip is to mark all the V-stitches with stitch markers so you can identify them more easily. The ch stitches worked in each round do not count toward the total stitch count.
Round 1: Ch 2, turn. Work [8, 8, 9, 9, 9] dc in the BLO. Then work a V-stitch. Continue working [16, 16, 18, 18, 18] dc in the BLO. Work another V-stitch. Work [16, 16, 18, 18, 18] dc in the BLO. Work the 3rd V-stitch. Work [16, 16, 18, 18, 18] dc in the BLO. Work the final V-stitch, then continue working [8, 8, 9, 9, 9] dc in the BLO. Join with 1 sl st into the first dc of the round.
You will have [72, 72, 80, 80, 80] sts in total. You have increased by 4 sts.
Round 2: Ch 1 and turn. Work sc in the BLO only. Continue until you reach the ch-2 space of a V-stitch. Work a V-stitch (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) into the ch-space. Repeat this until you reach the beginning of the round. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
You have increased by 8 sts in this round. You will have [80, 80, 88, 88, 88] sts in total.
Rounds worked in single crochet (sc) are worked in the BLO throughout the entire pattern.
Round 3: Ch 2, turn. Work dc until you reach the next ch-space. Work a V-stitch into the ch-space. Continue in the same way, working dc in every stitch until you reach each V-stitch, where you work another V-stitch. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
You have increased by 8 sts in each round. See Step 4 for the stitch count for each round. You will have [88, 88, 96, 96, 96] sts in total.
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 a total of [13, 15, 17, 19, 21] times, repeating until you have completed the required number of rounds for your chosen size. Finish with one round of sc.
If you want to know how many stitches you will have in each round, see below.
Stitch Count per Round. Total Number of Rounds for Each Size:
S: 13 rounds
M: 15 rounds
L: 17 rounds
XL: 19 rounds
XXL: 21 rounds
Round 4: [96, 96, 104, 104, 104] sts.
Round 5: [104, 104, 112, 112, 112] sts.
Round 6: [112, 112, 120, 120, 120] sts.
Round 7: [120, 120, 128, 128, 128] sts.
Round 8: [128, 128, 136, 136, 136] sts.
Round 9: [136, 136, 144, 144, 144] sts.
Round 10: [144, 144, 152, 152, 152] sts.
Round 11: [152, 152, 160, 160, 160] sts.
Round 12: [160, 160, 168, 168, 168] sts.
Round 13 (Small): [168, 168, 176, 176, 176] sts.
Round 14: [176, 184, 184, 184] sts.
Round 15 (Medium): [184, 192, 192, 192] sts.
Round 16: [200, 200, 200] sts.
Round 17 (Large): [208, 208, 208] sts.
Round 18: [216, 216] sts.
Round 19 (Extra Large): [224, 224] sts.
Round 20: [232] sts.
Round 21 (XX-Large): [240] sts.
NOTE! Try on your sweater as you crochet to make sure it fits properly. If you feel it is too large, follow the instructions for the next smaller size instead.
Continuing the Yoke
NOTE! In this section, we no longer increase by 8 sts per round, but only by 4 sts. Increases are now made only for the front and back panels. We no longer increase at the sleeves.
Round [14, 16, 18, 20, 22]: Ch 1 and turn. Work sc in the BLO until you reach the ch-space. Work 1 sc into the ch-space. Ch 2. Then work sc in the BLO until you reach the second ch-space. Ch 2. Work 1 sc into the ch-space.
Work sc in the BLO until you reach the 3rd ch-space. Work 1 sc into the ch-space. Ch 2. Then work sc in the BLO until you reach the 4th ch-space. Ch 2. Work 1 sc into the ch-space. Work sc in the BLO to the end of the round. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
You will have [172, 188, 212, 228, 236] sts in total.
Round [15, 17, 19, 21, 23]: Ch 2 and turn. Repeat the previous round, BUT use dc instead of sc. You will have increased by another 4 sts.
You will have [176, 192, 216, 232, 240] sts in total.
Underarms
We will now divide the work to create the armholes.
Round [16, 18, 20, 22, 24]: Ch 1 and turn. Work sc in the BLO until you reach the 1st ch-space from the previous round. Work 1 sc into the ch-space. Ch [5, 7, 9, 9, 9] to create a chain.
Skip all stitches until you reach the 2nd ch-space. Work 1 sc into the ch-space. Continue working sc in the BLO until you reach the 3rd ch-space, then work 1 sc into it. Ch 5.
Again, skip all stitches until you reach the 4th ch-space and work 1 sc into it. Then work sc in the BLO across the remaining stitches. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
You will have [94, 106, 118, 130, 130] sts in total.
Continuing the Sweater Body
Round [17, 19, 21, 23, 25]: Ch 2, turn. Work dc. When you reach the 1st chain made in the previous round, work 1 dc into each ch. Work dc in the remaining sts until you reach the 2nd chain. Work dc into each ch in the same way. Work 1 dc in each st to the end of the round. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
You will have [104, 120, 132, 148, 148] sts in total.
Round [18, 20, 22, 24, 26]: Ch 1, turn. Work sc in the BLO all the way around. Join with 1 sl st. You will have [104, 120, 132, 148, 148] sts in total.
Rounds [19, 21, 23, 25, 27]–51 (or until you reach your desired length): Repeat the rounds of dc and sc in the BLO, alternating between the two.
Size note: Try on your sweater as you work! If you want a longer or shorter sweater, add or remove rounds in multiples of two until you reach your desired length.
Round 52: Ch 1 and turn. Work sc through both loops all the way around. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
Sweater Ribbing
Notes: You can adjust the width of the ribbing by chaining more or fewer stitches.
Ch 7 and turn.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sc to the end. Work 2 sl sts along the bottom edge of the sweater. Turn.
Row 2: Do not ch 1. Skip the 2 sl sts you just worked along the bottom edge of the sweater. Work 6 sl sts in the BLO. Ch 1 and turn.
Repeat Rows 1–2 all the way around the sweater. Join the beginning and end of the ribbing in the same way as you did for the neck ribbing.
Sleeves (make 2)
Round 1: Attach the yarn to the middle ch of the chain you made when dividing the armholes, so that you begin in the center of the underarm. Ch 2, then work 1 dc into the same st. Continue working dc until you have [2, 3, 3, 4, 4] dc in total, then continue until you reach the first V-stitch. Skip the V-stitch and continue working [44, 48, 54, 58, 62] dc until you reach the next V-stitch. Skip this V-stitch as well. Continue working [2, 3, 3, 4, 4] dc. Join with 1 sl st into the first dc.
You will have [49, 55, 61, 67, 71] sts in total.
Round 2: Ch 1, turn. Work sc in the BLO all the way around. Join with 1 sl st.
Round 3: Ch 2, turn. Work 1 dc in each st all the way around. Join with 1 sl st.
Rounds 4–10: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3, alternating between them. Finish with a round of dc.
Note! If you prefer a straight, non-tapered sleeve, continue repeating the rounds until the sleeve reaches the desired length before adding the cuff. If you want a tapered sleeve, continue with the following instructions.
Adjusting the Size: Try on your sweater as you work! If you want a longer or shorter sleeve, repeat Rounds 1 and 2 more or fewer times at this point before continuing.
Shaping the Sleeve
If you want to taper the sleeve, you will work decreases to make the sleeve narrower toward the cuff. Decreases are made on every round of sc in the FLO. You should only work your decreases in the first 2 sts of the round to keep the sleeve seam neat and even.
Round 11: Ch 1 and turn. Work 1 decrease. Work sc in the FLO all the way around if you started working on the wrong side. If you start working on the right side, work in the BLO instead (the texture should match that of the sweater). Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
Round 12: Ch 2 and turn. Work 1 dc in each st all the way around. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
Rounds 13–31: Repeat Rounds 11 and 12. Finish with a round of sc in the FLO. After completing the final decrease round, you will have [39, 45, 51, 57, 61] sts in total.
Sleeve Cuff
You may need to shape the sleeve opening further so that it fits snugly around your wrist. You can decide how many decreases to make to achieve the desired fit. The following instructions will give you a slightly looser cuff opening.
Round 32: Work through both loops on this round. Work 4 decreases evenly spaced around the round (for all sizes).
Cuff Ribbing
You will work the cuff ribbing in the same way as the ribbing along the bottom of the sweater. You can chain more or fewer stitches depending on how wide you want the cuff to be.
Ch 7 and turn.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sc to the end. Work 2 sl sts along the bottom edge of the sleeve. Turn.
Row 2: Do not ch 1. Skip the 2 sl sts along the bottom edge of the sleeve. Work 6 sl sts in the BLO. Ch 1 and turn.
Repeat Rows 1–2 all the way around the sleeve opening. Join the beginning and end of the ribbing in the same way as you did for the neck ribbing.
Make sure all your yarn ends are securely woven in.
Finished!
The rights to this pattern belong to MYO Make Your Own. The pattern or its pictures may not be copied, shared or resold either in parts or in its entirety, but you may sell items you have crocheted from this pattern. If you have questions about the pattern, contact MYO at hello@makeyourown.se.
Sizes
The sizes are based on measurements when the sweater is laid flat (cm):
Total length/width (from armpit to armpit)/neckline/sleeve length (from armpit to end of ribbing)
- Small: 64 / 47 / 23 / 53
- Medium: 64 / 51 / 23 / 53
- Large: 64 / 55 / 23 / 53
- X-Large: 64 / 59 / 24.5 / 55
- XXL: 64 / 63 / 24.5 / 55
If you want a looser fit, choose a larger size. If you'd like a longer sweater, crochet additional rounds.
- The 2 chain stitches at the beginning of each round do not count as a stitch. Likewise, 1 chain stitch at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.
- The entire garment is worked in rounds (except for the ribbing). At the end of each round, finish with a slip stitch and always turn your work.
Increases on the Raglan Yoke:
Round 1 after the neckline is the row where we begin the increases. In this round, increase by only 4 stitches. After that, there will be 8 increases per row. Then it will go back to only 4 increases per row again. Increases are made because we start the sweater from the top and work downward, so we need increases to allow the sweater to grow in size.
The increases are made with V-stitches. After round 1, these V-stitches are made in the chain space from the previous V-stitch. A V-stitch is made by crocheting 1 double crochet, 2 chains, and 1 double crochet in the same stitch (alternatively, 1 single crochet, 2 chains, 1 single crochet).
Neck Ribbing
Notes: You can adjust the width of the neck ribbing by crocheting more or fewer chain stitches.
Row 1 (wrong side): Chain 5. Turn and, starting in the second chain from the hook, crochet 1 single crochet in each chain stitch. Turn. You should have a total of 4 stitches. If you're unsure how to make a slip knot, chain stitches, or single crochet, see the videos provided at the end.
Row 2 (right side): Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch here or in the following rows). Make 1 single crochet in the back loop of each stitch. Turn. You should have a total of 4 stitches. If you're unsure how to crochet in the back loop only, see the video below.
Rows 3-68 [68, 68, 76, 76, 76]: Repeat row 2. After the last row, chain 1. Fold the collar with the right side facing out and join the first and last rows with 4 slip stitches (working through the back loop). Turn the collar so that the seam is on the inside. If you're unsure how to make slip stitches, see the video below.
Make one single crochet in each row of the neck ribbing. You should have a total of [68, 68, 76, 76, 76] stitches.
Beginning of the Yoke
Note! In round 1, crochet double crochets in the back loop only. This is only done on the first round to create a detail along the neckline. If you don’t want an extra detail at the neckline, you can place the double crochets through both loops on this round as well.
We will now start crocheting V-stitches to begin the yoke and increase the number of stitches. A tip is to mark all V-stitches so they’re easier to see. Note that the V-stitches in this pattern use two chain stitches instead of one, as shown in the video.
Round 1: Chain 2, turn. Crochet [8, 8, 9, 9, 9] double crochets in the back loop only. Then make one V-stitch (double crochet, chain 2, double crochet in the same stitch). Continue crocheting double crochets in the back loop only for a total of [16, 16, 18, 18, 18] stitches. Make another V-stitch. Crochet double crochets in the back loop only for a total of [16, 16, 18, 18, 18] stitches. Make the third V-stitch. Crochet double crochets in the back loop only for a total of [16, 16, 18, 18, 18] stitches. Make the last V-stitch, then continue with double crochets in the back loop only for a total of [8, 8, 9, 9, 9] stitches. Finish with a slip stitch into the first double crochet of the row. You should have a total of [72, 72, 80, 80, 80] stitches. You have increased by 4 stitches.
If you're unsure how to crochet double crochets or V-stitches, see the videos below.
Row 2: Chain 1 and turn. Crochet single crochets only in the back loop only. Continue until you reach the two chain stitches that you made in your V-stitches. There, make one V-stitch (1 single crochet, 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet) in the chain space. Repeat this until you are back at the start. Finish with a slip stitch in the first double crochet. You have increased by 8 stitches in this row. You will have a total of [80, 80, 88, 88, 88] stitches.
Note: The rounds with single crochet are worked in the back loop only throughout the entire pattern. The chain stitches in the V-stitch is not counted as a stitch.
Row 3: Chain 2 and turn. Crochet double crochets to the next chain space. Make a V-stitch there. Continue crocheting in the same manner: double crochets in all stitches until you reach the V-stitches, where you will crochet another V-stitch. Finish with a slip stitch in the first stitch. You will increase by 8 stitches, and you will have a total of [88, 88, 96, 96, 96] stitches.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 a total of [13, 15, 17, 19, 21] times (as many as you need for the size you are crocheting). Finish with a round of single crochets. If you want to know how many stitches there will be in each round, see Step 4.
Number of stitches per round. Number of rounds depends on the size you are crocheting.
Small: 13 rounds
Medium: 15 rounds
Large: 17 rounds
Xtra Large: 19 rounds
XX-large: 21 rounds
- Round 4: [96, 96, 104, 104, 104]
- Round 5: [104, 104, 112, 112, 112]
- Round 6: [112, 112, 120, 120, 120]
- Round 7: [120, 120, 128, 128, 128]
- Round 8: [128, 128, 136, 136, 136]
- Round 9: [136, 136, 144, 144, 144]
- Round 10: [144, 144, 152, 152, 152]
- Round 11: [152, 152, 160, 160, 160]
- Round 12: [160, 160, 168, 168, 168]
- Round 13: Small [168, 168, 176, 176, 176]
- Round 14: [176, 184, 184, 184]
- Round 15: Medium [184, 192, 192, 192]
- Round 16: [200, 200, 200]
- Round 17: Large [208, 208, 208]
- Round 18: [216, 216]
- Round 19: XL [224, 224]
- Round 20: [232]
- Round 21: XXL [240]
Note! Test your sweater as you crochet to ensure it fits. If you feel it is too large, follow the size smaller.
Continuation of the Yoke
Note! In this section, we will no longer increase by 8 stitches, but only by 4 stitches per round. The increases are made only for the front and back sections. We will not increase further at the sleeves.
Round [14, 16, 18, 20, 22]: Chain 1 and turn. Then crochet single crochets in the back loop only until you reach the chain space. There, make one single crochet in the chain space. Chain 2. Then crochet single crochets in the back loop only until you reach the second chain space; make 2 chain stitches. Crochet one single crochet in the chain space.
Continue crocheting single crochets in the back loop only until you reach the third chain space. There, make one single crochet in the chain space. Chain 2. Then crochet single crochets in the back loop only until you reach the fourth chain space; make 2 chain stitches. Crochet one single crochet in the chain space. Crochet in the back loop until you are back at the start. Finish with a slip stitch.
Round [15, 17, 19, 21, 23]: Start with chain two, then repeat as the previous round, BUT use double crochets instead of single crochets. You will have increased by 4 stitches. In total, you will have [176, 192, 216, 232, 240] stitches.
Armholes
Now we will divide the work a bit to create armholes.
Round [16, 18, 20, 22, 24]: Chain 1 and turn. Crochet single crochet stitches in the back loop only up to the first chain stitch space from the previous row. Crochet 1 single crochet in the chain space. Crochet [5, 7, 9, 9, 9] chain stitches (a chain of stitches). Skip all stitches until the second chain stitch space. In that space, crochet 1 single crochet. Continue crocheting single crochet stitches in the back loop only until the third chain stitch space and crochet 1 single crochet in that space. Ch 5. Skip all stitches again until the fourth chain stitch space and crochet 1 single crochet in that space. Then crochet single crochet stitches in the back loop only in the remaining stitches. Finish with a slip stitch in the first stitch. In total, you will have [94, 106, 118, 130, 130] stitches.
Continuation of the Sweater
Round [17, 19, 21, 23, 25]: Chain 2 and turn. Crochet double crochets. When you reach the chain stitches that you made, crochet 1 double crochet in each of the chain stitches you crocheted in previous round. Finish with a slip stitch in the first stitch. In total, you will have [104, 120, 132, 148, 148] stitches.
Round [18, 20, 22, 24, 26]: Chain 1 and turn. Crochet single crochets in the back loop all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch. In total, you will have [104, 120, 132, 148, 148] stitches.
Rounds [19, 21, 23, 25, 27] – 51 (or until you reach the desired length): Repeat the rounds with double crochets and single crochets in the back loop.
Size Note: Try on as you go! If you want a longer or shorter sweater, add or remove rounds in multiples of two until the desired length is reached.
Round 52: Chain 1 and turn. Crochet single crochets in both loops all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch in the first stitch.
Ribbing on the Sweater
Note: You can change the width of the ribbing by crocheting more or fewer chain stitches.
Chain 7 and turn.
Row 1: Do not chain 1 when you turn. Begin in the 2nd chain and crochet single crochets to the end. Crochet 2 slip stitches along the bottom edge of the sweater. Turn.
Row 2: Do not chain 1, skip the 2 slip stitches that you just crocheted along the bottom edge of the sweater. Crochet 6 slip stitches in the back loop. Chain 1 and turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 around the entire sweater. Secure the beginning and end of the ribbing in the same way as with the neck ribbing.
Sleeves, Two Pieces
Round 1: Attach the yarn in the middle chain you made when you divided for the armholes (so that you start right under the armhole). Chain 2 and crochet a double crochet in the same stitch. Continue with double crochets for a total of [2, 3, 3, 4, 4] until you reach the first V-stitch. Skip the V-stitch and continue with double crochets for a total of [44, 48, 54, 58, 62] until you reach the next V-stitch. Again, skip the V-stitch. Continue with [2, 3, 3, 4, 4] stitches. Finish with a slip stitch into the first double crochet. In total, you will have [49, 55, 61, 67, 71] stitches.
Round 2: Chain 1, turn. Crochet single crochets in the back loop all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch.
Round 3: Chain 2, turn. Crochet 1 double crochet in each stitch all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch.
Rounds 4-10: Repeat rounds 2 and 3. Finish with a round of double crochets.
Note! If you prefer a non-shaped sleeve, you can continue repeating the rounds until you reach the desired sleeve length before adding the cuff. If you want to shape the sleeve, follow the instructions below.
Size Adjustment: Try it on as you go! If you want a longer or shorter sleeve, repeat rounds 1 and 2 more/less times here before continuing.
Shaping the Sleeve
If you want to shape the sleeve, we will make decreases in the rounds to taper the sleeve towards the cuff. Decreases are made in every round with single crochets in the front loop if starting with the wrong side. If you start with the right side up, crochet in the back loop so that the pattern will be the same as the body. You should only make your decreases in the first two stitches of the round to keep the sleeve seam even.
Round 11: Chain 1 and turn. Make a decrease. Crochet single crochets in the front loop all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch into the first stitch. If you're unsure how to make a decrease, see the video below.
Round 12: Chain 2 and turn. Crochet 1 double crochet in each stitch all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch into the first stitch.
Rounds 13-31: Repeat rounds 11 and 12. Finish with a round of single crochets in the front loop. When you finish the last decrease round, you will have a total of [39, 45, 51, 57, 61] stitches.
Cuff of the Sleeve
You need to shape the end of the sleeve further so that it fits snugly around the wrist. You decide how many decreases you want to make to achieve the right shape. The following instructions will give a slightly looser opening.
Round 32: Work in both loops for this round. Crochet 4 decreases evenly spaced around the round (applies to all sizes).
Cuff
You will work the cuff part in the same way as you did with the lower ribbing of the sweater. You can make more or fewer chain stitches depending on how wide you want the cuff to be.
Crochet 7 chain stitches and turn.
Row 1: Start in the 2nd stitch and crochet single crochets to the end. Crochet 2 slip stitches along the bottom edge of the sleeve. Turn.
Row 2: Do not chain 1, skip the 2 slip stitches along the bottom edge of the sleeve. Crochet 6 slip stitches in the back loop. Chain 1 and turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 around the entire sleeve end. Secure the beginning and end of the ribbing the same way as with the neck ribbing.
Fasten off all yarn ends, see below video for guidance.
If you have any more questions or need further assistance, just let me know! Good luck, and I hope you’re pleased with your sweater! :)
Description Using US Crochet Terms
This part of the pattern uses crochet terminology. If you need help, refer to the simpler section.
ABBREVIATIONS
ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (2 double crochets/stitches in the same stitch)
sl st = slip stitch
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
Sizes
Measurements are based on the sweater laid flat (cm):
Total length / Width (armpit to armpit) / Neck opening / Sleeve length (armpit to end of ribbing)
Small: 64 / 47 / 23 / 53
Medium: 64 / 51 / 23 / 53
Large: 64 / 55 / 23 / 53
XL: 64 / 59 / 24.5 / 55
XXL: 64 / 63 / 24.5 / 55
If you prefer a looser fit, choose one size larger. If you want a longer sweater, simply crochet more rounds.
- The 2 ch at the beginning of each round do not count as a stitch. The same applies to 1 ch at the beginning of a round.
- The entire garment is worked in rounds. At the end of each round, join with a sl st and always turn your work.
- Raglan increases on the yoke: Round 1 after the neckline is where we begin increasing. In this round, only 4 stitches are increased. After that, the increases will be 8 stitches per round. Later, this will change back to only 4 increases per round. The increases are necessary because the sweater is worked from the top down, so stitches must be added to make the sweater grow in size.
- The increases are made using V-stitches. After Round 1, work these V-stitches into the ch-space of the previous V-stitch. A V-stitch is made by working 1 dc, ch 2, and 1 dc into the same stitch (alternatively, 1 sc, ch 2, and 1 sc).
Neck Ribbing
Notes: You can adjust the width of the neck ribbing by chaining more or fewer stitches.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 5. Turn and starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work 1 sc in each ch. Turn. You now have 4 sts.
Row 2 (RS): Ch 1 (this does not count as a stitch here or throughout the pattern). Work 1 sc in the BLO of each st. Turn. You now have 4 sts.
Rows 3–68 [68, 68, 76, 76, 76]: Repeat Row 2. After the final row, ch 1. Fold the collar with the right side facing out and join the first and last rows with 4 sl sts (working through the BLO). Turn the collar so that the seam is on the inside.
Work 1 sc into each row of the neck ribbing. You should have [68, 68, 76, 76, 76] sts in total. Join the round with a sl st.
Beginning of the Yoke
NOTE! On Round 1, work the dc stitches in the BLO. This is only done on the first round to create a decorative detail along the neckline. If you do not want this extra detail along the neckline, you can work the dc stitches through both loops on this round as well.
We will now begin working V-stitches to start the yoke and increase the number of stitches. A helpful tip is to mark all the V-stitches with stitch markers so you can identify them more easily. The ch stitches worked in each round do not count toward the total stitch count.
Round 1: Ch 2, turn. Work [8, 8, 9, 9, 9] dc in the BLO. Then work a V-stitch. Continue working [16, 16, 18, 18, 18] dc in the BLO. Work another V-stitch. Work [16, 16, 18, 18, 18] dc in the BLO. Work the 3rd V-stitch. Work [16, 16, 18, 18, 18] dc in the BLO. Work the final V-stitch, then continue working [8, 8, 9, 9, 9] dc in the BLO. Join with 1 sl st into the first dc of the round.
You will have [72, 72, 80, 80, 80] sts in total. You have increased by 4 sts.
Round 2: Ch 1 and turn. Work sc in the BLO only. Continue until you reach the ch-2 space of a V-stitch. Work a V-stitch (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) into the ch-space. Repeat this until you reach the beginning of the round. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
You have increased by 8 sts in this round. You will have [80, 80, 88, 88, 88] sts in total.
Rounds worked in single crochet (sc) are worked in the BLO throughout the entire pattern.
Round 3: Ch 2, turn. Work dc until you reach the next ch-space. Work a V-stitch into the ch-space. Continue in the same way, working dc in every stitch until you reach each V-stitch, where you work another V-stitch. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
You have increased by 8 sts in each round. See Step 4 for the stitch count for each round. You will have [88, 88, 96, 96, 96] sts in total.
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 a total of [13, 15, 17, 19, 21] times, repeating until you have completed the required number of rounds for your chosen size. Finish with one round of sc.
If you want to know how many stitches you will have in each round, see below.
Stitch Count per Round. Total Number of Rounds for Each Size:
S: 13 rounds
M: 15 rounds
L: 17 rounds
XL: 19 rounds
XXL: 21 rounds
Round 4: [96, 96, 104, 104, 104] sts.
Round 5: [104, 104, 112, 112, 112] sts.
Round 6: [112, 112, 120, 120, 120] sts.
Round 7: [120, 120, 128, 128, 128] sts.
Round 8: [128, 128, 136, 136, 136] sts.
Round 9: [136, 136, 144, 144, 144] sts.
Round 10: [144, 144, 152, 152, 152] sts.
Round 11: [152, 152, 160, 160, 160] sts.
Round 12: [160, 160, 168, 168, 168] sts.
Round 13 (Small): [168, 168, 176, 176, 176] sts.
Round 14: [176, 184, 184, 184] sts.
Round 15 (Medium): [184, 192, 192, 192] sts.
Round 16: [200, 200, 200] sts.
Round 17 (Large): [208, 208, 208] sts.
Round 18: [216, 216] sts.
Round 19 (Extra Large): [224, 224] sts.
Round 20: [232] sts.
Round 21 (XX-Large): [240] sts.
NOTE! Try on your sweater as you crochet to make sure it fits properly. If you feel it is too large, follow the instructions for the next smaller size instead.
Continuing the Yoke
NOTE! In this section, we no longer increase by 8 sts per round, but only by 4 sts. Increases are now made only for the front and back panels. We no longer increase at the sleeves.
Round [14, 16, 18, 20, 22]: Ch 1 and turn. Work sc in the BLO until you reach the ch-space. Work 1 sc into the ch-space. Ch 2. Then work sc in the BLO until you reach the second ch-space. Ch 2. Work 1 sc into the ch-space.
Work sc in the BLO until you reach the 3rd ch-space. Work 1 sc into the ch-space. Ch 2. Then work sc in the BLO until you reach the 4th ch-space. Ch 2. Work 1 sc into the ch-space. Work sc in the BLO to the end of the round. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
You will have [172, 188, 212, 228, 236] sts in total.
Round [15, 17, 19, 21, 23]: Ch 2 and turn. Repeat the previous round, BUT use dc instead of sc. You will have increased by another 4 sts.
You will have [176, 192, 216, 232, 240] sts in total.
Underarms
We will now divide the work to create the armholes.
Round [16, 18, 20, 22, 24]: Ch 1 and turn. Work sc in the BLO until you reach the 1st ch-space from the previous round. Work 1 sc into the ch-space. Ch [5, 7, 9, 9, 9] to create a chain.
Skip all stitches until you reach the 2nd ch-space. Work 1 sc into the ch-space. Continue working sc in the BLO until you reach the 3rd ch-space, then work 1 sc into it. Ch 5.
Again, skip all stitches until you reach the 4th ch-space and work 1 sc into it. Then work sc in the BLO across the remaining stitches. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
You will have [94, 106, 118, 130, 130] sts in total.
Continuing the Sweater Body
Round [17, 19, 21, 23, 25]: Ch 2, turn. Work dc. When you reach the 1st chain made in the previous round, work 1 dc into each ch. Work dc in the remaining sts until you reach the 2nd chain. Work dc into each ch in the same way. Work 1 dc in each st to the end of the round. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
You will have [104, 120, 132, 148, 148] sts in total.
Round [18, 20, 22, 24, 26]: Ch 1, turn. Work sc in the BLO all the way around. Join with 1 sl st. You will have [104, 120, 132, 148, 148] sts in total.
Rounds [19, 21, 23, 25, 27]–51 (or until you reach your desired length): Repeat the rounds of dc and sc in the BLO, alternating between the two.
Size note: Try on your sweater as you work! If you want a longer or shorter sweater, add or remove rounds in multiples of two until you reach your desired length.
Round 52: Ch 1 and turn. Work sc through both loops all the way around. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
Sweater Ribbing
Notes: You can adjust the width of the ribbing by chaining more or fewer stitches.
Ch 7 and turn.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sc to the end. Work 2 sl sts along the bottom edge of the sweater. Turn.
Row 2: Do not ch 1. Skip the 2 sl sts you just worked along the bottom edge of the sweater. Work 6 sl sts in the BLO. Ch 1 and turn.
Repeat Rows 1–2 all the way around the sweater. Join the beginning and end of the ribbing in the same way as you did for the neck ribbing.
Sleeves (make 2)
Round 1: Attach the yarn to the middle ch of the chain you made when dividing the armholes, so that you begin in the center of the underarm. Ch 2, then work 1 dc into the same st. Continue working dc until you have [2, 3, 3, 4, 4] dc in total, then continue until you reach the first V-stitch. Skip the V-stitch and continue working [44, 48, 54, 58, 62] dc until you reach the next V-stitch. Skip this V-stitch as well. Continue working [2, 3, 3, 4, 4] dc. Join with 1 sl st into the first dc.
You will have [49, 55, 61, 67, 71] sts in total.
Round 2: Ch 1, turn. Work sc in the BLO all the way around. Join with 1 sl st.
Round 3: Ch 2, turn. Work 1 dc in each st all the way around. Join with 1 sl st.
Rounds 4–10: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3, alternating between them. Finish with a round of dc.
Note! If you prefer a straight, non-tapered sleeve, continue repeating the rounds until the sleeve reaches the desired length before adding the cuff. If you want a tapered sleeve, continue with the following instructions.
Adjusting the Size: Try on your sweater as you work! If you want a longer or shorter sleeve, repeat Rounds 1 and 2 more or fewer times at this point before continuing.
Shaping the Sleeve
If you want to taper the sleeve, you will work decreases to make the sleeve narrower toward the cuff. Decreases are made on every round of sc in the FLO. You should only work your decreases in the first 2 sts of the round to keep the sleeve seam neat and even.
Round 11: Ch 1 and turn. Work 1 decrease. Work sc in the FLO all the way around if you started working on the wrong side. If you start working on the right side, work in the BLO instead (the texture should match that of the sweater). Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
Round 12: Ch 2 and turn. Work 1 dc in each st all the way around. Join with 1 sl st into the first st.
Rounds 13–31: Repeat Rounds 11 and 12. Finish with a round of sc in the FLO. After completing the final decrease round, you will have [39, 45, 51, 57, 61] sts in total.
Sleeve Cuff
You may need to shape the sleeve opening further so that it fits snugly around your wrist. You can decide how many decreases to make to achieve the desired fit. The following instructions will give you a slightly looser cuff opening.
Round 32: Work through both loops on this round. Work 4 decreases evenly spaced around the round (for all sizes).
Cuff Ribbing
You will work the cuff ribbing in the same way as the ribbing along the bottom of the sweater. You can chain more or fewer stitches depending on how wide you want the cuff to be.
Ch 7 and turn.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sc to the end. Work 2 sl sts along the bottom edge of the sleeve. Turn.
Row 2: Do not ch 1. Skip the 2 sl sts along the bottom edge of the sleeve. Work 6 sl sts in the BLO. Ch 1 and turn.
Repeat Rows 1–2 all the way around the sleeve opening. Join the beginning and end of the ribbing in the same way as you did for the neck ribbing.
Make sure all your yarn ends are securely woven in.
Finished!
The rights to this pattern belong to MYO Make Your Own. The pattern or its pictures may not be copied, shared or resold either in parts or in its entirety, but you may sell items you have crocheted from this pattern. If you have questions about the pattern, contact MYO at hello@makeyourown.se.
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