Crochet dress “Gemma”
Crochet a unique and beautiful dress
Beginner or experienced crocheter – this pattern is suitable for everyone! For beginners, there is a full-length video that guides you through the entire pattern. The pattern is made to measure, so you decide the width and length of both the sleeves and the dress, allowing it to fit your body and personal style perfectly. All you need is a few skeins of Cotton Cloud (we used the color “Peach”), a 4 mm crochet hook, scissors, and optionally a smaller crochet hook or a tapestry needle.
Yarn consumption: approx. 550 g, depending on how long you make the dress and how wide the sleeves are.
Here's how to do it
This is a pattern with adjustable sizing. The width of the dress is up to you and is measured at the widest part of your body (recommended across the bust or hips), and the length is determined by how many rows you choose to crochet, as is the sleeve length. A tip is to try on the dress as you go to check the length while crocheting.
This is what you need:
Here you can directly purchase the material for the product. Please note that the instruction is digital and appears here on the page (no written instruction).
Cotton Cloud | 100 g
A slightly thinner cotton yarn that works perfectly for clothes, accessories and amigurumi.
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Chain and determine width – Front panel
Row 1: Crochet a chain and determine the width. Make a chain with an even number of chain stitches. The chain should be as wide as you want your dress to be, measured across the bust or hips at the widest point.
NOTE! Do not measure around the entire body, only one panel. For reference, the dress shown in the picture was made with 80 chain stitches, which gives 79 stitches in Row 2 and onward.
Start by making a slip knot. You do this as follows: wrap the yarn around two fingers, cross the strands, then pull the yarn through the loop and you have a slip knot.
To crochet a chain: yarn over with your hook and pull through the loop. Repeat until you have the desired number of chain stitches.
Row 2: In the 2nd chain from your hook, work your first double crochet as a “standing double crochet” instead of starting with chains for a more even finish. Work 1 double crochet in each stitch across the row. See video for easier guidance.
How to make a standing double crochet:
Pull up the loop on your hook so it is long enough to wrap once around the hook. Insert the hook into the stitch and pull up a loop, just like a regular double crochet. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook while holding the yarn in place with your fingers. Yarn over again and pull through the last two loops on the hook.
How to make a regular double crochet:
Yarn over once, insert the hook into the stitch, pull up a loop so you have 3 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops, yarn over again and pull through the last 2 loops.
Now you switch to working in double crochet. From here on, always start each new row with a “standing stitch.”
Row 3: Work your first double crochet in the first stitch. See video for easier guidance. Work 1 chain stitch and skip 1 stitch. *1 double crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 stitch*. Repeat between *…* across the row. (You should end with 1 double crochet.)
How to make a regular double crochet:
Yarn over twice, insert your hook into the stitch and pull up a loop so you have 4 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops. Yarn over again and pull through the next 2 loops, then yarn over once more and pull through the last 2 loops.
Now you have worked one row of double crochet stitches and one row of double crochet + chain stitches in every other stitch.
Repeat Row 2 and Row 3 until you are happy with the size of your front panel. The final row before step 3 should be double crochet for stability. I worked a total of 47 rows.
Shoulders / neckline
Start by working a “standing” double crochet + chain stitch in the first stitch on the row. Then work as many double crochet + chain stitch repeats as you want for your shoulder width. For reference, I worked 11.
Place a marker on the opposite side where your second shoulder section should begin and count how many stitches you have between your two points (from the end of the first shoulder section to the start of the second—this will be the neckline opening).
Then make a chain with the same number of chain stitches as the gap you measured.
After that, continue working the remaining double crochet + chain stitch repeats for the second shoulder section.
Back panel
The back panel is worked directly after you have finished the shoulders/neckline. Continue working in the same way as you did for the front panel.
You choose the length yourself. I worked the same number of sections on the back as on the front.
When you have finished the back panel and reached your desired length, fasten off the yarn.
How to make a knot (fasten off):
Cut the yarn, leaving about a 10 cm tail. Pull the yarn end all the way through the loop on your hook and tighten.
Weave in the yarn end on the inside of your dress using a crochet hook or a tapestry needle.
(Keep in mind that you finish with a row of double crochet stitches to match the edge finish of the front panel.)
Sleeve
Try on your dress and place markers where you want the sleeve opening/width to be. For reference, I worked 12 rows on each side of the neckline, totaling 25 rows including the neckline row.
Attach your yarn at one of the markers and work a row of double crochet along the edge to the other marker. For reference, I worked 53 double crochet stitches. As before, an odd number of stitches is needed for the round.
Then continue working rows in the same way as you did for the front and back panels of the dress. The final row should be double crochet.
When you reach the desired sleeve length, DO NOT cut the yarn. Leave a long tail for the next step, approximately 2× the side seam length is recommended. The section from the end of the sleeve down to the bottom of the dress is considered the side seam.
Sewing the side seams
Fold the dress in half with the wrong side facing out. Start from the bottom of the sleeve where you finished crocheting.
Using a tapestry needle or a smaller crochet hook, sew the side seam together. Sew back and forth as invisibly as possible all the way down to the bottom of the dress.
Cut off any excess yarn, tie a knot, and weave in the tail.
Repeat on the other side.
You are done!
Pattern with Crochet Terms
This section uses crochet terminology. If you need more help along the way, refer to the simpler version, which includes a full-length video tutorial.
Abbreviations:
m = stitch
ch = chain
st = stitch
dc = double crochet
Standing stitch: means you start with a specific stitch technique instead of beginning a new row with chains. This is best shown in the video.
Front panel
Row 1: Make a foundation chain and decide the width. Crochet a chain that is as wide as you want your piece to be. Measure over the bust or hips (note: not around the entire body, only one panel). You need an even number of chains. I made 80 chains, which gives 79 stitches in Row 2.
Row 2: In the 2nd chain from the hook, work 1 dc (I start the rows with a “standing” dc). See video for guidance. Then work 1 dc in each stitch across the row.
Row 3: *Work 1 dc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch*, repeat between *…* across the row.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you reach the desired size of the front panel. The final row before the next step should be a row of double crochet in each stitch for stability. I worked 47 rows.
Shoulders / neckline
Start by working 1 “standing” dc + 1 ch in the first stitch, skip 1 stitch. Work as many as needed for your shoulder width. I chose 11 stitches.
Place a marker on the opposite side where your shoulder width should begin and count how many stitches you have between the two points (end of the first shoulder section and start of the second shoulder section).
Then make a chain with the same number of chains as the gap you measured.
Continue working the remaining dc + ch on the other side.
Back panel
The back panel is worked directly from the shoulder/neckline section.
Continue working the same way as the front panel by repeating Rows 2 and 3 until the back panel reaches your desired length. You choose the length yourself. I made it the same length as the front.
Cut and weave in yarn ends on the inside of the garment.
Sleeves
Try on the garment and place markers where you want the sleeve opening/width to be. For reference, I worked 12 rows on each side of the neckline, totaling 25 rows.
Attach yarn at the first marker and work dc along the edge to the second marker. For reference, I worked 53 stitches. As before, an odd number of stitches is required for the round.
Then continue working rows in the same pattern as the front and back panels.
The final row should be double crochet.
When you reach the desired sleeve length, DO NOT cut the yarn. Leave a long tail for the next step, about 2× the side seam length is recommended. (Side seam = from the end of the sleeve to the bottom of the dress.)
Side seam
Fold the garment inside out. Start from the bottom of the sleeve where you finished crocheting.
Using a tapestry needle or a smaller crochet hook, sew the side seam together. Sew back and forth as invisibly as possible all the way down to the bottom of the dress.
Cut off excess yarn, tie a knot, and weave in the end.
Repeat on the other side.
The rights to this pattern belong to MYO Make Your Own. The pattern or its pictures may not be copied, shared or resold either in parts or in its entirety, but you may sell items you have crocheted from this pattern. If you have questions about the pattern, contact MYO at hello@makeyourown.se.
Chain and determine width – Front panel
Row 1: Crochet a chain and determine the width. Make a chain with an even number of chain stitches. The chain should be as wide as you want your dress to be, measured across the bust or hips at the widest point.
NOTE! Do not measure around the entire body, only one panel. For reference, the dress shown in the picture was made with 80 chain stitches, which gives 79 stitches in Row 2 and onward.
Start by making a slip knot. You do this as follows: wrap the yarn around two fingers, cross the strands, then pull the yarn through the loop and you have a slip knot.
To crochet a chain: yarn over with your hook and pull through the loop. Repeat until you have the desired number of chain stitches.
Row 2: In the 2nd chain from your hook, work your first double crochet as a “standing double crochet” instead of starting with chains for a more even finish. Work 1 double crochet in each stitch across the row. See video for easier guidance.
How to make a standing double crochet:
Pull up the loop on your hook so it is long enough to wrap once around the hook. Insert the hook into the stitch and pull up a loop, just like a regular double crochet. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook while holding the yarn in place with your fingers. Yarn over again and pull through the last two loops on the hook.
How to make a regular double crochet:
Yarn over once, insert the hook into the stitch, pull up a loop so you have 3 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops, yarn over again and pull through the last 2 loops.
Now you switch to working in double crochet. From here on, always start each new row with a “standing stitch.”
Row 3: Work your first double crochet in the first stitch. See video for easier guidance. Work 1 chain stitch and skip 1 stitch. *1 double crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 stitch*. Repeat between *…* across the row. (You should end with 1 double crochet.)
How to make a regular double crochet:
Yarn over twice, insert your hook into the stitch and pull up a loop so you have 4 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops. Yarn over again and pull through the next 2 loops, then yarn over once more and pull through the last 2 loops.
Now you have worked one row of double crochet stitches and one row of double crochet + chain stitches in every other stitch.
Repeat Row 2 and Row 3 until you are happy with the size of your front panel. The final row before step 3 should be double crochet for stability. I worked a total of 47 rows.
Shoulders / neckline
Start by working a “standing” double crochet + chain stitch in the first stitch on the row. Then work as many double crochet + chain stitch repeats as you want for your shoulder width. For reference, I worked 11.
Place a marker on the opposite side where your second shoulder section should begin and count how many stitches you have between your two points (from the end of the first shoulder section to the start of the second—this will be the neckline opening).
Then make a chain with the same number of chain stitches as the gap you measured.
After that, continue working the remaining double crochet + chain stitch repeats for the second shoulder section.
Back panel
The back panel is worked directly after you have finished the shoulders/neckline. Continue working in the same way as you did for the front panel.
You choose the length yourself. I worked the same number of sections on the back as on the front.
When you have finished the back panel and reached your desired length, fasten off the yarn.
How to make a knot (fasten off):
Cut the yarn, leaving about a 10 cm tail. Pull the yarn end all the way through the loop on your hook and tighten.
Weave in the yarn end on the inside of your dress using a crochet hook or a tapestry needle.
(Keep in mind that you finish with a row of double crochet stitches to match the edge finish of the front panel.)
Sleeve
Try on your dress and place markers where you want the sleeve opening/width to be. For reference, I worked 12 rows on each side of the neckline, totaling 25 rows including the neckline row.
Attach your yarn at one of the markers and work a row of double crochet along the edge to the other marker. For reference, I worked 53 double crochet stitches. As before, an odd number of stitches is needed for the round.
Then continue working rows in the same way as you did for the front and back panels of the dress. The final row should be double crochet.
When you reach the desired sleeve length, DO NOT cut the yarn. Leave a long tail for the next step, approximately 2× the side seam length is recommended. The section from the end of the sleeve down to the bottom of the dress is considered the side seam.
Sewing the side seams
Fold the dress in half with the wrong side facing out. Start from the bottom of the sleeve where you finished crocheting.
Using a tapestry needle or a smaller crochet hook, sew the side seam together. Sew back and forth as invisibly as possible all the way down to the bottom of the dress.
Cut off any excess yarn, tie a knot, and weave in the tail.
Repeat on the other side.
You are done!
Pattern with Crochet Terms
This section uses crochet terminology. If you need more help along the way, refer to the simpler version, which includes a full-length video tutorial.
Abbreviations:
m = stitch
ch = chain
st = stitch
dc = double crochet
Standing stitch: means you start with a specific stitch technique instead of beginning a new row with chains. This is best shown in the video.
Front panel
Row 1: Make a foundation chain and decide the width. Crochet a chain that is as wide as you want your piece to be. Measure over the bust or hips (note: not around the entire body, only one panel). You need an even number of chains. I made 80 chains, which gives 79 stitches in Row 2.
Row 2: In the 2nd chain from the hook, work 1 dc (I start the rows with a “standing” dc). See video for guidance. Then work 1 dc in each stitch across the row.
Row 3: *Work 1 dc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch*, repeat between *…* across the row.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you reach the desired size of the front panel. The final row before the next step should be a row of double crochet in each stitch for stability. I worked 47 rows.
Shoulders / neckline
Start by working 1 “standing” dc + 1 ch in the first stitch, skip 1 stitch. Work as many as needed for your shoulder width. I chose 11 stitches.
Place a marker on the opposite side where your shoulder width should begin and count how many stitches you have between the two points (end of the first shoulder section and start of the second shoulder section).
Then make a chain with the same number of chains as the gap you measured.
Continue working the remaining dc + ch on the other side.
Back panel
The back panel is worked directly from the shoulder/neckline section.
Continue working the same way as the front panel by repeating Rows 2 and 3 until the back panel reaches your desired length. You choose the length yourself. I made it the same length as the front.
Cut and weave in yarn ends on the inside of the garment.
Sleeves
Try on the garment and place markers where you want the sleeve opening/width to be. For reference, I worked 12 rows on each side of the neckline, totaling 25 rows.
Attach yarn at the first marker and work dc along the edge to the second marker. For reference, I worked 53 stitches. As before, an odd number of stitches is required for the round.
Then continue working rows in the same pattern as the front and back panels.
The final row should be double crochet.
When you reach the desired sleeve length, DO NOT cut the yarn. Leave a long tail for the next step, about 2× the side seam length is recommended. (Side seam = from the end of the sleeve to the bottom of the dress.)
Side seam
Fold the garment inside out. Start from the bottom of the sleeve where you finished crocheting.
Using a tapestry needle or a smaller crochet hook, sew the side seam together. Sew back and forth as invisibly as possible all the way down to the bottom of the dress.
Cut off excess yarn, tie a knot, and weave in the end.
Repeat on the other side.
The rights to this pattern belong to MYO Make Your Own. The pattern or its pictures may not be copied, shared or resold either in parts or in its entirety, but you may sell items you have crocheted from this pattern. If you have questions about the pattern, contact MYO at hello@makeyourown.se.
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