Size

The front and back of the slipover in the picture are as wide as 50 cm, which corresponds to 50 stitches in width. It will be 100 cm in circumference on the slipover, where it is at its widest. Therefore, adjust the size with the number of chains stitches you create in the first chain. See the image below for measurements for size M as the instruction follows. All dimensions can be easily adjusted by adding or removing the number of double crochets/stitches. One double crochet corresponds to approximately 1 cm in width. One tip is to measure the size of a sweater you have at home that sits the way you want it, and copy those measurements.

Step 1 Front piece‍

The front piece can be divided into three different parts according to picture below. Adjust the portions in width and in length for the best fit. Remember that on the chest and shoulder part you need to think in about 1-2 cm more in width per side for the ribbed edge. The chest measures 32 cm without the ribbed edge and 35 cm with the edges.

‍LOWER CHEST PART (ROW 1-17)‍

Chain up the number of chain stitches you want + 3 chains (50+3). in a few rounds, 1 chain will equal approx. 1 cm. Do not measure directly after the chain as it will be misleading. Henceforth, the text will start from 50 stitches in width across the entire chest. Customize that figure according to what you want. If you are not sure how to crochet a slip knot or chain stitches, see below videos.

Row 1: Skip the first 4 stitches, they will correspond to the first double crochet. Make a double crochet in the 5th stitch from your crochet hook. Now you have made 2 double crochet in total. If you are not sure how to crochet a double crochet, see below video.

Keep making one double crochet in each chain so that you have a total of 50 double crochets. Chain 3 and turn. Chain 3 count as the first double crochet on the next row.

Round 2-17: Instead of going down with the needle in the stitch, i.e. between the 2 lines of the double crochet on the row below (which you usually crochet in), go down with the needle between the middle of the double crochet (further down). Crochet a double crochet as usual. Now you have 2 double crochet. Continue. Make sure you have 50 double crochet after each row.

Repeat until you have a total of 17 rows of double crochets. After about 3 rows, check that the width of the piece is the desired measurement, in this case 50 cm. After 17 rows, cut the yarn and pull through the yarn.

CHEST PART (ROW 18-32)‍

Lay the piece in front of you with the yarn end on row 17 to the right. Put a yarn marker (No. 1) between double crochet 8 and 9, counting from right to left. If you are crocheting another size, remember that you should have the same amount of holes between the edges and your marker.

Start from the left side and put a marker between double crochet 9 and 10 (to the right) (No. 2). You should then have 33 double crochet between your markers.

Row 18: Make a loop around your needle. Go down with the needle between double crochet 9 and 10 (in the gap to the left of marker No. 1). Chain 3. This counts as the first stitch on row 18. Continue making 31 double crochets until you arrive at the gap just before marker #2. You should then have 32 double crochet in total between the markers. Chain 3 and turn. Continue crocheting 32 double crochet in width for a total of 15 rows (18-32). Do not cut the yarn. Chain 3. If you choose to have a number of stitches other than 17: Strive to have as many gaps (not number of double crochet) before as after the breast portion. This is to make the breast part sit in the middle.

SHOULDER PART (ROW 33-37)‍

Continue in the same way as before but now it will be only 10 double crochet in width. Repeat 5 rows in total. Cut yarn. Now one shoulder is ready. Make a loop around the hook and go through the top loop of the double crochet (note not between the double crochets). This is the first double crochet, see picture below.

Then do the second double crochet on the row below and continue until you have a total of 10 double crochets. Between the shoulders you should be able to count up to 13 double crochets (12 spaces between the double crochets).

Repeat until you have 5 rows total and your shoulders look the same. Cut the yarn.

STEP 2 - Back part

The back piece should be crocheted in the same way as the front piece except that the chest part is longer and the shoulder parts are shorter, see picture below. Instead of crocheting the chest section in 15 rows, it is crocheted in 19 rows. The shoulder sections will be only 1 row instead of 5 rows. Otherwise, do exactly the same as on the front. See chart for number of rows.

When you're done, it should look like this:

STEP 3 - Crochet around

You should crochet a row of single crochet around all sides of the front and back piece. If you are not sure how to crochet single crochet then see below video. Start at the bottom right corner (where you have a yarn end) and crochet a round around the piece. Note that at the corners at row 17/18 it should be filled in with a wedge so that the curve becomes rounder. See instruction and photos below. In the other corners, 3 stitches are crocheted in the same stitch. Start with a loop around the crochet hook and attach to the corner.

Then start crocheting single crochet at the very first edge. Try to find stitches in the double crochet instead of going around the whole double crochet, see picture.

Make about 2 single crochet per double crochet, trying to make the piece turn out straight. That is, do not do too many or too few so that the side bends. Repeat the number you do on the first side (row 1-17) on the other 3 sides (row 1-17). These 4 sides should then be crocheted together and a matching number of stitches will make it look better when attaching together. The number of stitches you have is less important, the importance is that the four sides have the same number. When you reach the first corner, make 3 stitches in the corner and continue around.

Crochet until you have 2 stitches left before the marker.

Now you should start making the first wedge in the “armpit”. Make a half double crochet in the next stitch, then a double crochet in the stitch after, and in the stitch with the marker, make a treble crochet. If you are not sure how to crochet a half double crochet or a treble crochet, see below videos.

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Do one more treble crochet in the next gap (the same one that lap 18 starts in).

Make a double crochet in the first double crochet on row 18. Then make a half double crochet in the next double crochet in the row above.

Continue to crochet single crochet all the way up to the shoulder, in the same way as before. Now you do not need to keep track of the number of stitches, but aim for the side to be straight. In the corners, make 3 single crochet in the same, except for the “lower” corners of the neckline, where crochet one stitch in each side without increase.

When you arrive at the next “armpit”, make one more wedge. You do it the same way as before but backwards as you will be crocheting from top to bottom this time instead of bottom up.

After the “armpit” comes the lower chest again. Remember to try to match the number of stitches that you made on the first side of the torso.

Crochet all the way around until you arrive at your first stitch. Crochet 2 more in the same stitch to get three in the corner. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Do the same on the front and back cover.

STEP 4 - Crochet the pieces together

You should crochet the pieces together on the lower chest part (where you made the same number of stitches), as well as over the shoulders. This method provides a relatively flat seam that allows the seam not to stand up too much. It can be a good idea to start by crocheting both shoulders together first and then the lower chest part. When finished with the lower chest part seam, it can transition directly into the rib. The text below will illustrate the seam and the same technique applies to the shoulders. There are different ways to crochet, see the below video if you are unsure. Note that we crochet slip stitches instead of single crochet, as shown in the video below.

‍Do this:
Place the pieces next to each other with the nice sides up. Make a slip knot. Start at the bottom corner and go through a stitch on both pieces. Pick up the slip knot and pull through the loops. Pick up yarn and pull through, now you have a start.

A tip to make the stitch more flat is to hold the yarn under and between the pieces in the way shown in the picture. Enter through the first front loop only  (the loop that is down towards the table, see picture). Then go through the back loop only of the second piece (the loop that is down towards the table, see picture). Make a wrap with the yarn around the needle and pull through both loops (a slip stitch).

Repeat in this way. Go through the top piece first and then the bottom piece and make a slip stitch. Constantly hold the thread between the pieces and down along the table/under the pieces.

You can also hold the pieces together in this way. If you happen to have made an uneven number of stitches so that you get one to much on the end, then go through one stitch on one side and two of the other side, before pulling the yarn through. When it's done, it looks like this. If you started by crocheting the shoulders together, now you can make ribs right after finished with attaching the slipover and therefore do not need to cut off and fasten the thread.

STEP 5 - Crochet ribbed edge‍

Now it's time to crochet the ribbed edges. If you want your edge with more elastic, you can choose to go down one size on the crochet hook. The ribbed edges of the pictures are made in the same crochet hook as the other parts of the slipover (crochet hook 6). All three edges are crocheted using the same technique and with the same number of stitches (the width of the rib). Here you can completely choose the number of stitches that suits you to get the width you want.

How to crochet a ribbed edge:
Always start the rib at one edge/side of the slipover and avoid the middle of the pieces as you may see a joint. The shoulder rib starts where the torso seam ends. Continue with the loop that you have after the seam. If you have cut off the thread from the seam, you can make a slip knot and go through the edge at the seam, making a start there.

Step 1: Make a chain with the number of chain stitches you wish +1, in this example 3+1 stitches (4 pieces).

Step 2: Skip the first chain and crochet 3 single crochets back along the chain down towards the slipover. Make 2 slip stitches in the hem of the shirt. Turn the shirt over.

Step 3: Skip the 2 slip stitches you just made and crochet 3 slip stitches in back loop only (the one furthest from you). Chain 1. Turn the shirt over. If you are not sure which is the back loop only, see below video.

Step 4: Skip the chain, crochet 3 single crochets in the back loop only (the one farthest from you). Make 2 slip stitches in the hem of the sweater, turn the sweater over.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are back at the start. Note that when you have the front of the slipover up and crochet against the slipover, you make single crochets, and when you have the back side up and crochet away from the edge, you make slip stitches. Check that you have continued 3 stitches in width from time to time, it is easy to lose a stitch after a few rows and then the edge will be skewed.
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Closing
Make a slip stitch in the first stitch of the sweater where you started.

Now you should crochet the two ends together with slip stitches. You do this by laying the ends next to each other and crocheting through the bow layers at the same time. Cut the yarn and attach the thread to the inside of the ribbon/slipover.

Once you have made the ribs in the same way for the neckline and the lower edge as well as fasten all the yarn tails, your slipover is ready! We recommend blocking your slipover, it's not a must but it gets a straighter shape and better fit. See step 10.

If you don't want to block, GOOD job with your slipover and we hope you are happy with the result :)

BLOCK

You can block in many different ways. Here I will explain a simple way to do it. What you need are needles and a substrate to attach the needles to. There is special blocking equipment to buy but you usually have something at home that you can use. I use a yoga mat, but a steadier sofa cushion also goes well.

1: Soak the garment in water. You can choose to wash the garment in wool detergent if you have it. The garment may appear soaked just a few minutes after you put it in water, but the innermost fibers need a little longer.

2: Press out as much water as possible. You can wrap the garment in a towel and press as much as you can. Avoid twisting the garment.

3: Drag and shape the garment to the desired size.

4. Stick the needle into the desired shape. Be sure to put needles in the corners and along the edges to avoid C-shapes along the edge. You may also need to attach some needles along the neckline as well to get a desired shape.

5. Allow to dry completely before removing the needles. Takes 1-2 days.

6. Finished!