Crochet bag “Lola”
Crochet the “Lola” bag!
This bag truly becomes a unique accessory for any outfit—perfect for both everyday use and special occasions! The shape is round with a beautiful edge detail. The finished bag measures 35 cm in diameter and approximately 100 cm in circumference. A full-length video tutorial, recorded by our creator Rebecca Pedersen, is included so that anyone can crochet this stunning bag. In the images, we used the color “Rusty Yellow”, and in the video “Dark Green.”
To crochet this bag, you’ll need EKO Ribbon yarn and an 8 mm crochet hook.
Yarn Consumption: Approximately 500g. Keep in mind that the amount of yarn can vary depending on your tension, so you may need more than one roll.
This is what you need:
Here you can directly purchase the material for the product. Please note that the instruction is digital and appears here on the page (no written instruction).
Here's how to do it
The bag is made in two separate pieces that are then crocheted together, and finally, the handle is added. Since the sides of the bag are worked individually, it’s important to crochet with the same tension on both. A good tip is to work both sides at the same time—one round at a time, for example. /Emma
%20(1).jpg)
The bag is crocheted in parts. We begin by making the two halves, which are then assembled. We’ll start with the two sides of the bag.
Step 1: Make two identical sides following the instructions below:
Row 1: Start with a magic ring. Crochet 2 chain stitches, which count as the first half double crochet. Then crochet 7 half double crochets. You should have a total of 8 stitches in the row. Place a marker in the first stitch (the second chain you made at the beginning) so you know where the first/last stitch is..
Note that the circle is not closed—you are working back and forth in rows to create a half circle.
If you’re unsure how to crochet a magic ring with half double crochets, see the video below. Keep in mind that in the video we close the ring, but in this pattern, we work in rows instead and do not close the ring.
Row 2: Now it’s time to make increases. Crochet 2 half double crochets in each stitch around. Start by crocheting 2 chain stitches, then 1 half double crochet in the first stitch (together with the ch 2 they will count as two half double crochet in the samt stitch), followed by 2 half double crochets in each stitch. Keep in mind that the last half double crochets should be worked into the stitch where you placed your first marker.
Place a marker in the second chain in the beginning. You should have a total of 16 stitches in the row.
From now until row 7, always move your stitch markers so that they sit in the 2nd of the 2 chain stitches at the beginning of each row.
Row 3: Now increase in every other stitch. Start the row with 2 chain stitches, then begin increasing in the second stitch — that is, crochet 2 half double crochets in the same stitch. Continue making an increase in every other stitch across the row. You should have a total of 24 stitches in this row.
Row 4: Crochet 2 chain stitches, then make 3 half double crochets in the second stitch.
*Skip one stitch. In the next stitch, crochet (all in the same stitch) 1 single crochet, 2 chain stitches, and 3 half double crochets*. Repeat this sequence (between *...*) across the row, and finish by making 3 half double crochets in the last stitch (the one belonging to the chain from the previous row).
If you're unsure how to make a single crochet, see the video below.
Row 5–7: Crochet 2 chain stitches. Then make 3 half double crochets in the second stitch (the chain stitches do not count as a stitch).
Crochet 1 single crochet, 2 chain stitches, and 3 half double crochets, all into the chain space from the previous row. Repeat this sequence across the row, and finish by making 3 half double crochets in the last stitch (the one that belongs to the chain from the previous row).
Row 8: Chain 1. Finish by crocheting single crochets along the top edge. The exact number isn’t important, but for a clean and even look, it’s recommended to crochet the same number of stitches on both sides of the center point.
Now repeat this entire process to create your second half — so you end up with two identical halves!
NOTE: Do not cut the yarn when you finish your second half.
If you’re unsure how to fasten off your yarn, see the video below.
Assembly: Crochet the two halves together
Place your two halves together, right sides facing out — choose whichever side you think looks best to show on the outside. Continue crocheting or make a slipknot and start on one side. Crochet the pieces together using single crochet stitches all the way around, working only through the outer loops of each stitch.
If you’re unsure how to do this, refer to the instructional video. Finish by cutting the yarn, making a knot, and weaving in the end.
If you’re not sure how to make a slipknot, see the video below.
Step 3: Handle
Start to the right of the seam and ending to the left of it.
Row 1: Fasten the yarn with a chiain. Crochet 3 single crochet stitches, Chain 1 and turn.
Row 2 and onward: Crochet 3 single crochet stitches, chain 1 and turn. Repeat this until the handle reaches your desired length — I crocheted 21 rows.
Attach the Handle
Secure the handle to the opposite seam of the bag by "sewing it on." Start by measuring out a long piece of yarn — about twice the length of your handle (this yarn will also be used for the final step). Cut the yarn and sew the handle in place. Make sure the handle isn’t twisted before you start sewing it on. Weave the yarn back and forth as if sewing; use your crochet hook or a large needle if you have one. Finish with a knot and weave in the end.
Finish the Handle:
Starting where you just attached the handle, "sew" the outer edges of the handle together to create a rounded shape. Use your crochet hook or a large needle. Finish with a knot and hide all yarn ends. Done!
Cut and fasten off.
Advanced
If you need help along the way, check out our simplified version of this pattern.
MR = magic ring
st = stitch
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
hdc = half double crochet
hdc inc = half double crochet increase (2 hdc in the same stitch)
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
(...) = indicates the total number of stitches in that row
*...* = repeat everything between *..* as many times as indicated
Step 1: Crochet 2 bag sides
Note: You’ll be crocheting flat in a half-circle shape, not closing the round.
Row 1: Make a magic ring, ch 2 (counts as first hdc), then crochet 7 hdc into the ring. Place a marker in the first stitch (the second chain you made at the beginning) so you know where the first/last stitch is. (8)
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc). Crochet 1 half double crochet (hdc) in the first stitch (which, together with the 2 chain stitches, becomes 2 hdc in the same stitch). Place a stitch marker in the 2nd of the 2 chains. Crochet 2 hdc in each stitch around. Keep in mind that the last half double crochets should be worked into the stitch where you placed your first marker. (16)
From now until row 7, always move your stitch markers so that they sit in the 2nd of the 2 chain stitches at the beginning of each row.
Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc). Start in the 2nd st, *hdc inc, 1 hdc* x7, hdc inc (24 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc). Start in the 2nd st and crochet 3 hdc. *Skip 1 stitch. In the next stitch, work: 1 sc, ch 2, 3 hdc* repeat from * to * around. In the last stitch, make 3 hdc.
Rows 5–7: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc). Start in the 2nd st and crochet 3 hdc. *In the ch-space from the previous row, work: 1 sc, ch 2, 3 hdc. Repeat this sequence from * across the row. End the row with 3 hdc in the last stitch (the one connected to the turning chain from the previous row).
Row 8: Chain 1. Work sc stitches along the straight top edge. The exact number is not important, but for a neat and symmetrical finish, try to make the same number of stitches on each half from the center. Now repeat and make a second identical half so you have two total.
Note: Do not cut the yarn when you finish your second half but do it after your first half.
Step 2: Assembly
Place your two halves together, with the right sides facing out (you can choose which side you prefer). Crochet them together using sc stitches all the way around, working only in the outer loops of each stitch.
Finish by cutting the yarn, tying a knot, and weaving in the yarn tail.
Step 3: Handle
Row 1: Start to the right of the seam and ending to the left, at the seam. Fasten the yarn/slip knot with a chain, then crochet 3 sc. Ch 1 and turn.
Rows 2–21: Crochet 3 sc, ch 1, turn. You can make your handle as long as you like — I made 21 rows.
Attach the handle to the other seam of the bag by “sewing” it in place. First, measure a long piece of yarn — about twice the length of your handle — cut it, and use it to sew the handle in place. Make sure the handle isn’t twisted before you start sewing it on. Thread the yarn back and forth as if you’re sewing. Use your crochet hook or a large tapestry needle.
Finish with a knot and weave in the yarn end.
Finish the handle:
Start where you just attached the handle. Now, "sew" the outer edges of the handle together to give it a rounded shape. Use your crochet hook or a large needle if needed.
Finish by tying a knot and weaving in all yarn ends.
Done!
Weave in all yarn ends — and you’re done!
The bag is crocheted in parts. We begin by making the two halves, which are then assembled. We’ll start with the two sides of the bag.
Step 1: Make two identical sides following the instructions below:
Row 1: Start with a magic ring. Crochet 2 chain stitches, which count as the first half double crochet. Then crochet 7 half double crochets. You should have a total of 8 stitches in the row. Place a marker in the first stitch (the second chain you made at the beginning) so you know where the first/last stitch is..
Note that the circle is not closed—you are working back and forth in rows to create a half circle.
If you’re unsure how to crochet a magic ring with half double crochets, see the video below. Keep in mind that in the video we close the ring, but in this pattern, we work in rows instead and do not close the ring.
Row 2: Now it’s time to make increases. Crochet 2 half double crochets in each stitch around. Start by crocheting 2 chain stitches, then 1 half double crochet in the first stitch (together with the ch 2 they will count as two half double crochet in the samt stitch), followed by 2 half double crochets in each stitch. Keep in mind that the last half double crochets should be worked into the stitch where you placed your first marker.
Place a marker in the second chain in the beginning. You should have a total of 16 stitches in the row.
From now until row 7, always move your stitch markers so that they sit in the 2nd of the 2 chain stitches at the beginning of each row.
Row 3: Now increase in every other stitch. Start the row with 2 chain stitches, then begin increasing in the second stitch — that is, crochet 2 half double crochets in the same stitch. Continue making an increase in every other stitch across the row. You should have a total of 24 stitches in this row.
Row 4: Crochet 2 chain stitches, then make 3 half double crochets in the second stitch.
*Skip one stitch. In the next stitch, crochet (all in the same stitch) 1 single crochet, 2 chain stitches, and 3 half double crochets*. Repeat this sequence (between *...*) across the row, and finish by making 3 half double crochets in the last stitch (the one belonging to the chain from the previous row).
If you're unsure how to make a single crochet, see the video below.
Row 5–7: Crochet 2 chain stitches. Then make 3 half double crochets in the second stitch (the chain stitches do not count as a stitch).
Crochet 1 single crochet, 2 chain stitches, and 3 half double crochets, all into the chain space from the previous row. Repeat this sequence across the row, and finish by making 3 half double crochets in the last stitch (the one that belongs to the chain from the previous row).
Row 8: Chain 1. Finish by crocheting single crochets along the top edge. The exact number isn’t important, but for a clean and even look, it’s recommended to crochet the same number of stitches on both sides of the center point.
Now repeat this entire process to create your second half — so you end up with two identical halves!
NOTE: Do not cut the yarn when you finish your second half.
If you’re unsure how to fasten off your yarn, see the video below.
Assembly: Crochet the two halves together
Place your two halves together, right sides facing out — choose whichever side you think looks best to show on the outside. Continue crocheting or make a slipknot and start on one side. Crochet the pieces together using single crochet stitches all the way around, working only through the outer loops of each stitch.
If you’re unsure how to do this, refer to the instructional video. Finish by cutting the yarn, making a knot, and weaving in the end.
If you’re not sure how to make a slipknot, see the video below.
Step 3: Handle
Start to the right of the seam and ending to the left of it.
Row 1: Fasten the yarn with a chiain. Crochet 3 single crochet stitches, Chain 1 and turn.
Row 2 and onward: Crochet 3 single crochet stitches, chain 1 and turn. Repeat this until the handle reaches your desired length — I crocheted 21 rows.
Attach the Handle
Secure the handle to the opposite seam of the bag by "sewing it on." Start by measuring out a long piece of yarn — about twice the length of your handle (this yarn will also be used for the final step). Cut the yarn and sew the handle in place. Make sure the handle isn’t twisted before you start sewing it on. Weave the yarn back and forth as if sewing; use your crochet hook or a large needle if you have one. Finish with a knot and weave in the end.
Finish the Handle:
Starting where you just attached the handle, "sew" the outer edges of the handle together to create a rounded shape. Use your crochet hook or a large needle. Finish with a knot and hide all yarn ends. Done!
Cut and fasten off.
Advanced
If you need help along the way, check out our simplified version of this pattern.
MR = magic ring
st = stitch
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
hdc = half double crochet
hdc inc = half double crochet increase (2 hdc in the same stitch)
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
(...) = indicates the total number of stitches in that row
*...* = repeat everything between *..* as many times as indicated
Step 1: Crochet 2 bag sides
Note: You’ll be crocheting flat in a half-circle shape, not closing the round.
Row 1: Make a magic ring, ch 2 (counts as first hdc), then crochet 7 hdc into the ring. Place a marker in the first stitch (the second chain you made at the beginning) so you know where the first/last stitch is. (8)
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc). Crochet 1 half double crochet (hdc) in the first stitch (which, together with the 2 chain stitches, becomes 2 hdc in the same stitch). Place a stitch marker in the 2nd of the 2 chains. Crochet 2 hdc in each stitch around. Keep in mind that the last half double crochets should be worked into the stitch where you placed your first marker. (16)
From now until row 7, always move your stitch markers so that they sit in the 2nd of the 2 chain stitches at the beginning of each row.
Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc). Start in the 2nd st, *hdc inc, 1 hdc* x7, hdc inc (24 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc). Start in the 2nd st and crochet 3 hdc. *Skip 1 stitch. In the next stitch, work: 1 sc, ch 2, 3 hdc* repeat from * to * around. In the last stitch, make 3 hdc.
Rows 5–7: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc). Start in the 2nd st and crochet 3 hdc. *In the ch-space from the previous row, work: 1 sc, ch 2, 3 hdc. Repeat this sequence from * across the row. End the row with 3 hdc in the last stitch (the one connected to the turning chain from the previous row).
Row 8: Chain 1. Work sc stitches along the straight top edge. The exact number is not important, but for a neat and symmetrical finish, try to make the same number of stitches on each half from the center. Now repeat and make a second identical half so you have two total.
Note: Do not cut the yarn when you finish your second half but do it after your first half.
Step 2: Assembly
Place your two halves together, with the right sides facing out (you can choose which side you prefer). Crochet them together using sc stitches all the way around, working only in the outer loops of each stitch.
Finish by cutting the yarn, tying a knot, and weaving in the yarn tail.
Step 3: Handle
Row 1: Start to the right of the seam and ending to the left, at the seam. Fasten the yarn/slip knot with a chain, then crochet 3 sc. Ch 1 and turn.
Rows 2–21: Crochet 3 sc, ch 1, turn. You can make your handle as long as you like — I made 21 rows.
Attach the handle to the other seam of the bag by “sewing” it in place. First, measure a long piece of yarn — about twice the length of your handle — cut it, and use it to sew the handle in place. Make sure the handle isn’t twisted before you start sewing it on. Thread the yarn back and forth as if you’re sewing. Use your crochet hook or a large tapestry needle.
Finish with a knot and weave in the yarn end.
Finish the handle:
Start where you just attached the handle. Now, "sew" the outer edges of the handle together to give it a rounded shape. Use your crochet hook or a large needle if needed.
Finish by tying a knot and weaving in all yarn ends.
Done!
Weave in all yarn ends — and you’re done!
The rights to this pattern belong to MYO Make Your Own. The pattern or its pictures may not be copied, shared or resold either in parts or in its entirety, but you may sell items you have crocheted from this pattern. If you have questions about the pattern, contact MYO at hello@makeyourown.se.
