Crochet cardigan “Linnea”
Crochet a Cozy Cardigan That You Can Adjust to Suit Your Style
In this tutorial, you'll learn how to crochet a stylish cardigan using the classic grandmother’s stripe pattern. You can choose the length and size to match your personal style. For a cardigan approximately the same size as the one in the photo (Size S), you'll need about 8 skeins of MYO Basic Wool. You can use a crochet hook size 6 or 7 mm – both will work well.
This tutorial is beginner-friendly, as we guide you through all the steps in the video. The cardigan also turns out beautifully in children's sizes!
Yarn : In the video, we crocheted the cardigan using EKO Nano, but we now recommend MYO's Basic Wool, which was added to our collection after the video was made.
The cardigan becomes lighter and softer when made with Basic Wool – just like the one in the photo.
For size S, you’ll need approximately 700–800 g of MYO Basic Wool, depending on how long and oversized you want your cardigan to be. If you plan to make it longer, you’ll need additional skeins.
This is what you need:
Here you can directly purchase the material for the product. Please note that the instruction is digital and appears here on the page (no written instruction).
Here's how to do it
GOOD TO KNOW BEFORE YOU START: In the instructional video, we crocheted the cardigan using EKO Nano, but we now recommend using MYO's wool yarn Basic Wool, which was added to our range after this tutorial was made. The cardigan will be lighter and softer with Basic Wool – like the one in the picture. For size S, you’ll need about 700–800 g of MYO Basic Wool, depending on how long and oversized you choose to make your cardigan. If you want to make it longer, you’ll need more skeins. Everything depends on how tightly you crochet – if you crochet more tightly, you’ll also need more yarn. Try to crochet fairly loosely to get a cardigan that drapes nicely and softly. :)
INFO
This is a made-to-measure pattern, which means you measure and try on the garment as you crochet, adjusting the fit yourself.
You will crochet the back piece first, then the front piece. After that, assemble the pieces before crocheting the sleeves. Finally, you will work an edging around the neckline.
For example, Linnea has one back piece and two front pieces, while Livia only has one back piece and one front piece, both worked the same way.
The chain on Row 1 of the back piece consists of a number of chain stitches. To determine how many you need, measure the distance across your shoulder joints on the front of your body. Then add about 10 centimeters on each side so the cardigan or sweater can cover your shoulders. If you want a larger garment, make a longer starting chain.
CALCULATING STITCH COUNT
The total number of stitches should be divisible by three. Once you choose a stitch count that fits you and is divisible by three, add one extra chain stitch.
For example, you could start with 42, 45, 48, 51, 54, 57, or 60 chain stitches, then add one extra chain stitch.
Keep in mind that everyone crochets with different tension, so measure yourself regularly as you go. A good tip is to measure after a few rows to ensure the size still looks correct. If you crochet tightly, you may need to use a larger crochet hook.
BACK PIECE
Row 1: Begin by making a slip knot and then chain the number of stitches needed for your chosen size.
How to do this: One method is to wrap the yarn around your index and middle fingers, then pull up the yarn so that the loop tightens as you pull. Leave about 15 centimeters of yarn for a tail.
Adjust the size of the loop around your crochet hook so it is snug but not too tight.
Now start working the chain: use the crochet hook to pull the yarn from the ball through the loop on the hook to form the first chain stitch. You will temporarily have two loops on the hook. Pull through to create a loop, and continue until you have the full number of chain stitches for your row.
Row 2: Now you will begin working back along the foundation chain using single crochet stitches. Start in the second chain from the hook, skipping the chain closest to the hook. When you reach the end of the row, chain three stitches and turn your work.
How to do this:
Follow the foundation chain and work Row 2 with single crochets. Skip the first chain that is holding your hook and insert the hook into the next chain. Yarn over and pull through (you now have two loops on your hook). Yarn over again and pull through both loops to complete the single crochet.
Repeat this across the row. You will have one fewer stitch than the number of chains in your foundation row.
At the end of the row, chain three stitches and turn your work to begin Row 3.
Important: If you forget to add the turning chain at the end before turning, the back piece may become uneven.
Row 3: Now we will begin working double crochets. Work the first double crochet into the fourth stitch from the hook (skipping the three chains closest to the hook).
*Skip two stitches and work three double crochets in the next stitch.*
Repeat this sequence across the row until you have three stitches remaining. Skip two stitches and work two double crochets in the last stitch. Chain 3 and turn your work.
How to do this:
After turning your work, you will begin working double crochets.
- To make a double crochet: yarn over, insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull through (three loops on the hook), yarn over and pull through the first two loops (two loops remain), yarn over and pull through the last two loops. You have now completed one double crochet.
- Start by making a double crochet in the fourth stitch from the hook. You now have one double crochet plus the three turning chains (which count as a double crochet) in the same stitch.
- Skip the next two stitches and work three double crochets in the following stitch.
- Continue this pattern across the row. When you have three stitches left, skip two stitches and work two double crochets in the last stitch.
- Chain three and turn your work to begin the next row.
Row 4: Work 3 double crochets in the first space and continue in the same way across the row. When you reach the last space, there will be a small gap between the last 2 double crochets from the previous row. Work 1 double crochet in that gap. Finish the row by chaining 3 and turning your work.
How to do this:
After turning your work, start working back along the row.
- Work three double crochets in the next space and continue this pattern across the row.
- When you reach the last space, there will be a small gap between the last two double crochets from the previous row. Work one double crochet in that gap.
- Finish the row by chaining three and turning your work.
Important Notes:
- If you begin the row with three chains before working three double crochets in the first space, you should finish the row with one double crochet in the last stitch.
- If you begin the row with three chains and one double crochet in the same stitch, you should finish the row with two double crochets in the last stitch.
Row 5: Work one double crochet in the small gap between the three chains and the first double crochet from the previous row. Then work 3 double crochets in each space across the row until you reach the last space (the gap between the last 3 double crochets and the 3 chains from the previous row). In the last space, work 2 double crochets. Finish the row by chaining 3 and turning your work.
Important Notes:
- If you begin the row with two double crochets (that is, three chains plus one double crochet), you should finish the row with two double crochets in the last stitch.
- Repeat Row 4 and Row 5, alternating, until the back piece reaches the desired length.
- On the final row, finish with one chain instead of three.
Finishing the Back Piece:
After reaching the desired length, work one row of single crochet in each stitch across. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
Check that the width of the back piece is to your liking before moving on.
Row 6 / Finishing the Back Piece:
Finish the back piece by working one row of 1 single crochet in each stitch across. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Check that you are happy with the width of the back piece.
How to do this:
- On the final row of the back piece, start by making just one loop on the hook before turning. Then work single crochet in each stitch across the row.
- Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of about 5–10 centimeters.
- Tie the remaining yarn tail in a knot around the last loop to prevent it from unraveling.
- Pull the knot tight and hide the tail by weaving it through a few nearby loops.
- Do the same with the yarn tail left at the beginning of the piece (if it hasn’t already been woven in).
This completes the back piece, ready for measuring and assembling with the front pieces.
Front Pieces
You will crochet two front pieces in the same way as the back piece, but with fewer chains in the foundation row.
The two front pieces, placed side by side, should cover slightly more than two-thirds of the width of the back piece. Use the same logic to calculate the number of stitches as you did for the back piece. Each front piece should therefore be slightly wider than one-third of the back piece.
Calculating Stitch Count
Example: If you worked a total of 49 stitches (48 plus 1 extra) for the back piece:
- Divide 49 by 3 ≈ 16.
- You could then chain 18 stitches (plus 1 extra chain at the end) for each front piece if you worked 48 plus 1 chain for the back piece.
Follow the same instructions as for the back piece and make the front pieces the same length as the back piece.
Hold the pieces against your body to check that you are happy with the measurements before moving on.
Assembly
Deciding on Seam Style:
- Visible seams (seams outward): Place the front piece(s) on top of the back piece with the wrong sides facing each other.
- Hidden seams (seams inward): Place the front piece(s) on top of the back piece with the right sides facing each other.
Joining the Front and Back Pieces at the Shoulders:
- Start at one shoulder seam.
- Work slip stitches through the back loop of the front piece and the front loop of the back piece.
- Begin at the outer edge and slip stitch the front piece to the back piece along the shoulder.
- Continue working single crochet along the neckline of the back piece until you reach the other front piece.
- Join the second front piece to the back piece in the same manner.
- Once satisfied, fasten off the yarn as you did previously.
- Repeat on the other shoulder and check that the armholes are even and the placement is correct before continuing.
Joining the Side Seams:
Now you will join the sides of the back piece and the front piece(s).
- Important: Do not forget to leave openings for the sleeves.
- Start at the bottom of the cardigan or sweater and work up the side, joining the back and front pieces as you did previously.
- Repeat on the other side.
- Make sure the openings for the sleeves are the same size on both sides.
- Check that you are happy with the armhole openings and then fasten off the yarn ends.
Sleeves
Round 1: Start with a slip stitch in a gap between 2 double crochet groups in the armhole. Chain 3, then work 2 double crochets in the same gap. Work 3 double crochets in each large gap around the armhole until you reach the starting point.
Important: There are several gaps along the armhole. Make sure to work into the largest gaps only; working into all gaps will make the sleeve too wide.
When you return to the starting point, work 1 slip stitch into the 3rd chain you made at the beginning.
Round 2: Move to the next gap between double crochet groups. Work slip stitches until you reach that gap. Chain three and work 2 double crochets in the same gap. Work 3 double crochets in all the large gaps around the armhole. Finish the round the same way as Round 1.
Repeating and Finishing:
Repeat Round 2 until the sleeve reaches the desired length.
Work one final round of single crochet in each stitch around the sleeve.
Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
Repeat the same process for the second sleeve.
Last Round Tip:
Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through both loops.
Finish the round in the same manner as previously described to ensure a neat edge.
Final Round on the Cardigan
A crocheted finishing round gives a neat edge.
Work one round of single crochet in each stitch around the bottom edge of the cardigan and along the front opening.
Cut the yarn and weave in all yarn ends.
This completes the cardigan, giving it a tidy and polished finish.
Abbreviations
MR = magic ring
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
dc increase = two double crochets in the same stitch
dc group = double crochet group, i.e., 3 double crochets in the same stitch
fp = front post
bp = back post
(...) = total stitches for the row/round
*...* = repeat everything between asterisks the number of times indicated
[...] = everything inside the brackets is worked into the same stitch
Info
This is a made-to-measure pattern, which means you measure and try on the garment as you crochet, adjusting the fit yourself.
You start by crocheting the back piece, then the front piece(s). After that, assemble the pieces before working the sleeves. Finally, crochet an edging around the neckline. Linnea has one back piece and two front pieces, while Livia has one back piece and one front piece, worked the same way.
Chain for Row 1 of the Back Piece:
The chain consists of a number of chains based on the width between your shoulder joints on the front of your body. Add about 4 inches (10 cm) on each side so the cardigan or sweater sits nicely over your shoulders. For a larger garment, chain more stitches.
Calculating Total Stitches:
- The total stitch count should be divisible by 3.
- Once you choose a stitch count that fits and is divisible by 3, add 1 extra chain.
- For example, you could start with 42, 45, 48, 51, 54, 57, or 60 chains, then add 1 extra chain.
Sequence for This Project:
- Crochet the back piece of the cardigan.
- Crochet the front pieces.
- Join the front pieces to the back piece.
- Crochet the sleeves.
- Finish with an edging around the cardigan.
Chain for the Back Piece:
Back Piece
Row 1: Ch 61, turn. (61)
Row 2: Work in 2nd ch from hook: sc 60, turn. (60)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in 4th ch from hook, skip 2 sts, 3 dc in next st; repeat ... until 3 sts remain, skip 2 sts, 2 dc in last st, turn. (60)
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3 dc in the gap between each dc group from previous row; repeat ... to the small gap between the last 2 dc from previous row, 1 dc in this gap, turn. (60)
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in the gap between the last dc and dc group from previous row, 3 dc in each dc group from previous row; repeat ... until 1 st remains, 2 dc in last gap. (60)
Repeat rows 4–5 until the back reaches desired length. End with ch 1, then work 1 row of sc in each stitch. Cut yarn and weave in ends. Check width.
Front Pieces
Work two front pieces like the back, but with fewer chains.
Together, the two pieces should cover slightly more than 2/3 of the back width. Use the same logic to calculate stitch counts.
Example: if the back has 49 sts (48 + 1), dividing by 3 gives ~16; use 18 (+1 final chain) for each front piece. Front pieces should match the length of the back. Try on for fit.
Assembly
Visible seams: place front pieces on back, wrong sides together.
Hidden seams: place right sides together.
Join at top with slip stitches: into back post of front piece and front post of back piece. Start at one shoulder and join a front piece to back. Continue across neck edge to second front piece. Repeat on the other side.
Now join sides, leaving openings for sleeves. Start at the bottom and work upwards, same as before. Make sure sleeve openings are equal on both sides. Weave in ends.
Sleeves
Round 1: Attach yarn with sl st in a gap between dc groups of the armhole. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in the same gap, 3 dc in next large gap. Continue 3 dc in each large gap around. Finish round with sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain.
Round 2: sl st to next gap, ch 3, 2 dc in same gap, 3 dc in each gap across. Finish round with sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain.
Repeat Round 2 until desired sleeve length.
Final round: sc in each stitch, cut yarn, weave in ends. Repeat for second sleeve.
Finishing Round
Work 1 round of sc in each stitch around the bottom edge and front opening of the cardigan. Cut yarn and weave in all ends.
Congratulations! Your cardigan is complete. 🙂
INFO
This is a made-to-measure pattern, which means you measure and try on the garment as you crochet, adjusting the fit yourself.
You will crochet the back piece first, then the front piece. After that, assemble the pieces before crocheting the sleeves. Finally, you will work an edging around the neckline.
For example, Linnea has one back piece and two front pieces, while Livia only has one back piece and one front piece, both worked the same way.
The chain on Row 1 of the back piece consists of a number of chain stitches. To determine how many you need, measure the distance across your shoulder joints on the front of your body. Then add about 10 centimeters on each side so the cardigan or sweater can cover your shoulders. If you want a larger garment, make a longer starting chain.
CALCULATING STITCH COUNT
The total number of stitches should be divisible by three. Once you choose a stitch count that fits you and is divisible by three, add one extra chain stitch.
For example, you could start with 42, 45, 48, 51, 54, 57, or 60 chain stitches, then add one extra chain stitch.
Keep in mind that everyone crochets with different tension, so measure yourself regularly as you go. A good tip is to measure after a few rows to ensure the size still looks correct. If you crochet tightly, you may need to use a larger crochet hook.
BACK PIECE
Row 1: Begin by making a slip knot and then chain the number of stitches needed for your chosen size.
How to do this: One method is to wrap the yarn around your index and middle fingers, then pull up the yarn so that the loop tightens as you pull. Leave about 15 centimeters of yarn for a tail.
Adjust the size of the loop around your crochet hook so it is snug but not too tight.
Now start working the chain: use the crochet hook to pull the yarn from the ball through the loop on the hook to form the first chain stitch. You will temporarily have two loops on the hook. Pull through to create a loop, and continue until you have the full number of chain stitches for your row.
Row 2: Now you will begin working back along the foundation chain using single crochet stitches. Start in the second chain from the hook, skipping the chain closest to the hook. When you reach the end of the row, chain three stitches and turn your work.
How to do this:
Follow the foundation chain and work Row 2 with single crochets. Skip the first chain that is holding your hook and insert the hook into the next chain. Yarn over and pull through (you now have two loops on your hook). Yarn over again and pull through both loops to complete the single crochet.
Repeat this across the row. You will have one fewer stitch than the number of chains in your foundation row.
At the end of the row, chain three stitches and turn your work to begin Row 3.
Important: If you forget to add the turning chain at the end before turning, the back piece may become uneven.
Row 3: Now we will begin working double crochets. Work the first double crochet into the fourth stitch from the hook (skipping the three chains closest to the hook).
*Skip two stitches and work three double crochets in the next stitch.*
Repeat this sequence across the row until you have three stitches remaining. Skip two stitches and work two double crochets in the last stitch. Chain 3 and turn your work.
How to do this:
After turning your work, you will begin working double crochets.
- To make a double crochet: yarn over, insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull through (three loops on the hook), yarn over and pull through the first two loops (two loops remain), yarn over and pull through the last two loops. You have now completed one double crochet.
- Start by making a double crochet in the fourth stitch from the hook. You now have one double crochet plus the three turning chains (which count as a double crochet) in the same stitch.
- Skip the next two stitches and work three double crochets in the following stitch.
- Continue this pattern across the row. When you have three stitches left, skip two stitches and work two double crochets in the last stitch.
- Chain three and turn your work to begin the next row.
Row 4: Work 3 double crochets in the first space and continue in the same way across the row. When you reach the last space, there will be a small gap between the last 2 double crochets from the previous row. Work 1 double crochet in that gap. Finish the row by chaining 3 and turning your work.
How to do this:
After turning your work, start working back along the row.
- Work three double crochets in the next space and continue this pattern across the row.
- When you reach the last space, there will be a small gap between the last two double crochets from the previous row. Work one double crochet in that gap.
- Finish the row by chaining three and turning your work.
Important Notes:
- If you begin the row with three chains before working three double crochets in the first space, you should finish the row with one double crochet in the last stitch.
- If you begin the row with three chains and one double crochet in the same stitch, you should finish the row with two double crochets in the last stitch.
Row 5: Work one double crochet in the small gap between the three chains and the first double crochet from the previous row. Then work 3 double crochets in each space across the row until you reach the last space (the gap between the last 3 double crochets and the 3 chains from the previous row). In the last space, work 2 double crochets. Finish the row by chaining 3 and turning your work.
Important Notes:
- If you begin the row with two double crochets (that is, three chains plus one double crochet), you should finish the row with two double crochets in the last stitch.
- Repeat Row 4 and Row 5, alternating, until the back piece reaches the desired length.
- On the final row, finish with one chain instead of three.
Finishing the Back Piece:
After reaching the desired length, work one row of single crochet in each stitch across. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
Check that the width of the back piece is to your liking before moving on.
Row 6 / Finishing the Back Piece:
Finish the back piece by working one row of 1 single crochet in each stitch across. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Check that you are happy with the width of the back piece.
How to do this:
- On the final row of the back piece, start by making just one loop on the hook before turning. Then work single crochet in each stitch across the row.
- Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of about 5–10 centimeters.
- Tie the remaining yarn tail in a knot around the last loop to prevent it from unraveling.
- Pull the knot tight and hide the tail by weaving it through a few nearby loops.
- Do the same with the yarn tail left at the beginning of the piece (if it hasn’t already been woven in).
This completes the back piece, ready for measuring and assembling with the front pieces.
Front Pieces
You will crochet two front pieces in the same way as the back piece, but with fewer chains in the foundation row.
The two front pieces, placed side by side, should cover slightly more than two-thirds of the width of the back piece. Use the same logic to calculate the number of stitches as you did for the back piece. Each front piece should therefore be slightly wider than one-third of the back piece.
Calculating Stitch Count
Example: If you worked a total of 49 stitches (48 plus 1 extra) for the back piece:
- Divide 49 by 3 ≈ 16.
- You could then chain 18 stitches (plus 1 extra chain at the end) for each front piece if you worked 48 plus 1 chain for the back piece.
Follow the same instructions as for the back piece and make the front pieces the same length as the back piece.
Hold the pieces against your body to check that you are happy with the measurements before moving on.
Assembly
Deciding on Seam Style:
- Visible seams (seams outward): Place the front piece(s) on top of the back piece with the wrong sides facing each other.
- Hidden seams (seams inward): Place the front piece(s) on top of the back piece with the right sides facing each other.
Joining the Front and Back Pieces at the Shoulders:
- Start at one shoulder seam.
- Work slip stitches through the back loop of the front piece and the front loop of the back piece.
- Begin at the outer edge and slip stitch the front piece to the back piece along the shoulder.
- Continue working single crochet along the neckline of the back piece until you reach the other front piece.
- Join the second front piece to the back piece in the same manner.
- Once satisfied, fasten off the yarn as you did previously.
- Repeat on the other shoulder and check that the armholes are even and the placement is correct before continuing.
Joining the Side Seams:
Now you will join the sides of the back piece and the front piece(s).
- Important: Do not forget to leave openings for the sleeves.
- Start at the bottom of the cardigan or sweater and work up the side, joining the back and front pieces as you did previously.
- Repeat on the other side.
- Make sure the openings for the sleeves are the same size on both sides.
- Check that you are happy with the armhole openings and then fasten off the yarn ends.
Sleeves
Round 1: Start with a slip stitch in a gap between 2 double crochet groups in the armhole. Chain 3, then work 2 double crochets in the same gap. Work 3 double crochets in each large gap around the armhole until you reach the starting point.
Important: There are several gaps along the armhole. Make sure to work into the largest gaps only; working into all gaps will make the sleeve too wide.
When you return to the starting point, work 1 slip stitch into the 3rd chain you made at the beginning.
Round 2: Move to the next gap between double crochet groups. Work slip stitches until you reach that gap. Chain three and work 2 double crochets in the same gap. Work 3 double crochets in all the large gaps around the armhole. Finish the round the same way as Round 1.
Repeating and Finishing:
Repeat Round 2 until the sleeve reaches the desired length.
Work one final round of single crochet in each stitch around the sleeve.
Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
Repeat the same process for the second sleeve.
Last Round Tip:
Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through both loops.
Finish the round in the same manner as previously described to ensure a neat edge.
Final Round on the Cardigan
A crocheted finishing round gives a neat edge.
Work one round of single crochet in each stitch around the bottom edge of the cardigan and along the front opening.
Cut the yarn and weave in all yarn ends.
This completes the cardigan, giving it a tidy and polished finish.
Abbreviations
MR = magic ring
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
dc increase = two double crochets in the same stitch
dc group = double crochet group, i.e., 3 double crochets in the same stitch
fp = front post
bp = back post
(...) = total stitches for the row/round
*...* = repeat everything between asterisks the number of times indicated
[...] = everything inside the brackets is worked into the same stitch
Info
This is a made-to-measure pattern, which means you measure and try on the garment as you crochet, adjusting the fit yourself.
You start by crocheting the back piece, then the front piece(s). After that, assemble the pieces before working the sleeves. Finally, crochet an edging around the neckline. Linnea has one back piece and two front pieces, while Livia has one back piece and one front piece, worked the same way.
Chain for Row 1 of the Back Piece:
The chain consists of a number of chains based on the width between your shoulder joints on the front of your body. Add about 4 inches (10 cm) on each side so the cardigan or sweater sits nicely over your shoulders. For a larger garment, chain more stitches.
Calculating Total Stitches:
- The total stitch count should be divisible by 3.
- Once you choose a stitch count that fits and is divisible by 3, add 1 extra chain.
- For example, you could start with 42, 45, 48, 51, 54, 57, or 60 chains, then add 1 extra chain.
Sequence for This Project:
- Crochet the back piece of the cardigan.
- Crochet the front pieces.
- Join the front pieces to the back piece.
- Crochet the sleeves.
- Finish with an edging around the cardigan.
Chain for the Back Piece:
Back Piece
Row 1: Ch 61, turn. (61)
Row 2: Work in 2nd ch from hook: sc 60, turn. (60)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in 4th ch from hook, skip 2 sts, 3 dc in next st; repeat ... until 3 sts remain, skip 2 sts, 2 dc in last st, turn. (60)
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3 dc in the gap between each dc group from previous row; repeat ... to the small gap between the last 2 dc from previous row, 1 dc in this gap, turn. (60)
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in the gap between the last dc and dc group from previous row, 3 dc in each dc group from previous row; repeat ... until 1 st remains, 2 dc in last gap. (60)
Repeat rows 4–5 until the back reaches desired length. End with ch 1, then work 1 row of sc in each stitch. Cut yarn and weave in ends. Check width.
Front Pieces
Work two front pieces like the back, but with fewer chains.
Together, the two pieces should cover slightly more than 2/3 of the back width. Use the same logic to calculate stitch counts.
Example: if the back has 49 sts (48 + 1), dividing by 3 gives ~16; use 18 (+1 final chain) for each front piece. Front pieces should match the length of the back. Try on for fit.
Assembly
Visible seams: place front pieces on back, wrong sides together.
Hidden seams: place right sides together.
Join at top with slip stitches: into back post of front piece and front post of back piece. Start at one shoulder and join a front piece to back. Continue across neck edge to second front piece. Repeat on the other side.
Now join sides, leaving openings for sleeves. Start at the bottom and work upwards, same as before. Make sure sleeve openings are equal on both sides. Weave in ends.
Sleeves
Round 1: Attach yarn with sl st in a gap between dc groups of the armhole. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in the same gap, 3 dc in next large gap. Continue 3 dc in each large gap around. Finish round with sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain.
Round 2: sl st to next gap, ch 3, 2 dc in same gap, 3 dc in each gap across. Finish round with sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain.
Repeat Round 2 until desired sleeve length.
Final round: sc in each stitch, cut yarn, weave in ends. Repeat for second sleeve.
Finishing Round
Work 1 round of sc in each stitch around the bottom edge and front opening of the cardigan. Cut yarn and weave in all ends.
Congratulations! Your cardigan is complete. 🙂
The rights to this pattern belong to MYO Make Your Own. The pattern or its pictures may not be copied, shared or resold either in parts or in its entirety, but you may sell items you have crocheted from this pattern. If you have questions about the pattern, contact MYO at hello@makeyourown.se.
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