Gauge for beginners - how to get the right size for your garments

Picture this: you’ve chosen your yarn, found a pattern you absolutely love, and are ready to get started. BUT – once the garment is finished, you discover it turned out bigger, smaller, wider, or narrower than you intended. Does this sound familiar? It’s a very common problem, so you’re not alone. And it’s rarely because you’ve done anything wrong.

When you knit or crochet, the final result is affected by several things: your technique, your gauge, and the material you’re working with. The better you understand how these three elements interact, the better your chances of getting a garment that fits exactly as you imagined.

Take a look at this and learn the most important things to keep in mind before you start ↓

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1. Your technique

Everyone knits and crochets differently. That’s just how it is. Some work tightly, resulting in dense, compact stitches. Others work more loosely, creating a more airy fabric. Neither method is right or wrong, but the difference affects the garment’s dimensions.

Two people can use EXACTLY the same yarn, the same needle size, and the same pattern – and still get different results. That’s why it’s super important not just to follow the instructions, but also to ensure your work matches the gauge the pattern is based on before you start.

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2. The gauge

Gauge describes how many stitches and rows fit within a certain measurement (usually 10 × 10 cm). Gauge acts as a kind of calibration between you and the person who created the pattern. If your gauge differs from the one specified in the pattern, you’ll end up with a garment that doesn’t fit properly. Which is a shame. Just a few stitches difference per 10 cm can make a huge difference to the overall size of the garment in the end.

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3. The material

Different yarns behave differently. Cotton yarn, for example, can shrink slightly during the first wash. In some cases, the dimensions can decrease by up to about 5 percent depending on the yarn and washing method. Therefore, it’s wise to read the yarn’s care instructions carefully. And then keep the material’s properties in mind when planning both size and fit.

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What is a gauge swatch?

A gauge swatch is like a small test piece that you knit or crochet before starting the actual project. Many people skip this step because they’re excited and want to get started quickly – but a few extra minutes of work at the beginning can actually save you countless hours of work later. So, you’re doing yourself a huge disservice if you skip the swatch.

With the help of a gauge swatch, you can:

- check that your gauge is correct
- see how the yarn behaves “in action”
- test if you need to change needle size
- get a better idea of the garment’s future drape, feel, and texture

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How to measure your gauge: 

Make a swatch using the same technique as the pattern. In practice, this means if the pattern uses stockinette stitch, make your swatch in stockinette. If the pattern uses double crochet, make your swatch in double crochet. Simple as that! Then, measure how many stitches fit into 10 cm and compare your stitch count with the one specified.

Do you have more stitches than specified? You are most likely working tighter than the pattern assumes. Solution: go up a needle size.

Do you have fewer stitches than specified? You are likely working looser.
Solution: go down a needle size.

Continue adjusting the needle size until you get as close to the specified gauge as possible.

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If you are following a "made to measure" pattern

In a made-to-measure pattern, you calculate the number of stitches needed for your specific measurements yourself. That is why gauge is extra super important. Once you know how many stitches fit into 10 cm, you can calculate how many stitches fit into 1 cm by dividing that number by 10. Wondering how the formula works in practice? Like this:

‍Example: If you get 20 stitches in 10 cm, that means you have 2 stitches per centimeter. If you want the piece to be 50 cm wide, you calculate 2 × 50 = 100 stitches. You will need to cast on approximately 100 stitches to get the desired width for your project.

‍Remember! Some patterns require the stitch count to be even or divisible by a certain number, so always check the instructions before casting on your stitches.

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For those who knit

When knitting garments, gauge is (without being dramatic) crucial for ensuring the size turns out correctly. This is especially true for sweaters, cardigans, and other garments that follow body measurements. If the pattern specifies both stitches and rows per 10 cm, you need to check both. A garment might have the right width but still end up too long or too short if your row gauge differs significantly from the pattern.

An extra tip is to also wash your swatch according to the yarn's recommendations before measuring it. This is because many yarns change slightly after washing and blocking as the fibers "relax."

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For those who crochet

When crocheting clothes, both gauge and technique significantly affect the final result. This is especially true for garments that include double crochets or other taller stitches. You can get completely different drapes depending on how tightly or loosely they are crocheted. Many crocheted garments look best when worked slightly loosely. It provides a softer drape and a more comfortable garment that you will want to wear all the time.

If the pattern specifies that the garment should be crocheted loosely, it might be worth trying a larger crochet hook, especially if you know you tend to crochet tightly. For double crochet patterns, it is also important that the swatch includes several rows so the stitches have time to "settle." Try to crochet at least three rows before measuring.

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Before you begin, make sure to check off this list: 

✓ I have made a swatch

✓ I have checked the gauge

✓ I am using the same technique the pattern is based on

✓ I have taken the yarn's properties into account

✓ I have read any comments regarding loose or tight knitting/crocheting

✓ I know which size or measurements I am aiming for

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By now, we hope you have a solid grasp of everything related to gauge. Honestly, a few minutes of preparation can make a huge difference to the final result. With the right gauge and a little bit of planning, it becomes both easier and more fun to create garments that fit exactly as you intended.

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