Fingerless mittens "Johanna"
Knit a pair of cozy wrist warmers – perfect for cold hands and a chic layered look!
The wrist warmers are knitted using two yarns: MYO Basic Wool and Mohair. The mohair makes them wonderfully soft and snug, and since this is a small project, a single skein of mohair goes a long way.
The pattern is made to measure, which means you measure your wrist (or the wrist of the person who will wear them) and then calculate how many stitches to cast on. In addition to the yarn, you’ll need a pair of circular needles (or double-pointed needles) in size 5 mm. We’ve used the color “beige” for both MYO Basic Wool and the Mohair yarn.
We guide you from start to finish with a full-length video.
Yarn requirements: approx. 30–45 g MYO Basic Wool and 5–10 g Mohair per mitten.
The wrist warmers shown in the photos are knitted for a wrist measurement of 14.5 cm, using 30 g MYO Basic Wool and 5 g Mohair per mitten.
This is what you need:
Here you can directly purchase the material for the product. Please note that the instruction is digital and appears here on the page (no written instruction).
Here's how to do it
Knit a pair of cozy and simple wrist warmers – perfect for beginners! I love wearing these when I’m working at my computer at home during the winter months. But they’re just as perfect for a walk, or anytime you want to add a little extra coziness to your outfit <3 /Johanna
Gauge: approx. 16–17 stitches per 10 cm in garter stitch worked in the round on 5 mm needles.
If your work is too tight, go up one needle size.
If it’s too loose, go down one needle size.
Calculating stitch count:
Measure around the wrist where the mitten will sit.
Take the measurement in centimeters and multiply it by 1.6 if you want a snug fit, or by 1.8 if you want a slightly looser fit.
Round up to the nearest even number.
Then add one extra stitch. This extra stitch helps create a neat start when you begin knitting in the round.
Cast-On
Cast on the stitches using the cross cast-on method.
This is a common and sturdy cast-on that works well for mittens.
You’ve cast on one extra stitch than you actually need – it’s only used to create a neat transition when we start knitting in the round.
Preparation
Measure out a sufficiently long piece of yarn. How long it needs to be depends on how many stitches you’re casting on, but it’s better to have it too long than too short.
Make a loop and place it on the needle. Pull both yarn ends so the loop sits snugly.
This counts as your first stitch.
Hold the yarn correctly
3. Wrap the loose yarn around your left thumb. The tail should be on the outside of your thumb.
4. Bring the yarn from the ball over your left index finger, from the palm side out.
5. Hold both yarn ends in your palm with your ring and little fingers. The yarn now forms a “V” shape between your thumb and index finger.
Casting on stitches
6. Insert the right needle from below through the loop around your thumb.
7. Use the needle to catch the yarn from your index finger.
8. Pull the yarn back through the loop around your thumb, forming a new stitch.
9. Release the loop from your thumb and gently tighten the stitch on the needle.
10. Wrap the yarn around your thumb again and repeat the steps until you’ve cast on the desired number of stitches.
Tip: The stitches should sit firmly but not tightly on the needle. If the cast-on feels too tight, start over and make it a little looser.
Prepare for Magic Loop
Magic loop is used to knit in the round even when your project is smaller than the circumference of the circular needle.
- Divide the stitches
Once all stitches are cast on:
• Slide the stitches to the middle of the circular needle.
• Divide them into two equal parts. The needle with the working yarn (from the ball) should have one fewer stitch; the extra stitch goes on the other needle.
• Pull out the cable between the stitches so you have two needle tips free.
Half of the stitches are on each needle. - Hold the needles correctly
Hold the needle with the working yarn in your right hand.
This is always where you start knitting.
The stitches on the other needle are waiting. - The extra stitch (for a neat start)
You’ve cast on an extra stitch.
Move the extra stitch from one needle to the other.
Then lift the first stitch over the extra stitch and drop it off the needle.
Gently pull the yarn tail.
Your work is now joined in a circle without a gap, and you have the correct number of stitches.
Important to remember
• Pull the first stitch on each needle slightly tighter to avoid gaps.
• If it feels tricky – pause, read again, and continue calmly.
Knit in the Round
When knitting in the round for this pattern, you will only work knit stitches.
Here’s how to knit a stitch:
- Insert the right needle from front to back through the stitch.
- Wrap the yarn around the needle.
- Pull the yarn through the stitch.
- Slip the old stitch off the needle.
Knit all the stitches on the needle with the working yarn first.
When the needle is empty: turn the work, pull out the cable, and knit the next needle.
Knit in the round for 20 rounds, or until the wrist section reaches the desired length.
Thumb Increases
Now we’ll make room for the thumb by increasing stitches.
Round 1 (increase round)
Knit until 1 stitch remains on the needle.
Make a right-leaning increase:
- Lift the strand between two stitches from back to front.
- Knit into the lifted strand.
Knit the last stitch and switch needles.
Knit 1 stitch, then make a left-leaning increase: - Lift the strand between two stitches from front to back.
- Knit into the lifted strand.
Knit the remaining stitches.
Round 2
Knit all stitches.
Round 3
Repeat the increase round.
Round 4
Knit all stitches.
You have now increased a total of 4 stitches.
Knit the Thumb Opening (Back and Forth)
Knit the stitches on one needle.
Turn the work.
Slip the first stitch and purl the remaining stitches.
(Purl stitches are worked with the yarn in front of the work.)
Purl the stitches on the next needle and turn again.
Slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches.
Continue working back and forth in this way until the thumb opening is the desired size, about 12 rows.
Return to Knitting in the Round
Now you’ll start knitting in the round again.
Knit all stitches in the round for 12 rounds, or until the mitten covers the fingers as much as you like.
Bind-Off – Ruke Bind-Off
Slip the first two stitches to the end of the round.
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail.
Thread the yarn onto a tapestry needle.
Insert the needle through the first three stitches, pull the yarn through, and slip off the first stitch.
Continue in this way:
- Insert through three stitches
- Pull the yarn through
- Slip off the first stitch
When two stitches remain:
- Insert the needle through both stitches
- Pull the yarn through the last stitch and slip it off
Turn the mitten inside out and weave in the yarn by following the stitches on the back of the work.
Also weave in the yarn tail from the cast-on in the same way.
Knitting Terms
M1R = Right-leaning increase
M1L = Left-leaning increase
Calculating Stitch Count
Measure the circumference of the wrist in centimeters. Multiply by 1.6 for a snug fit, or by 1.8 for a slightly looser fit. Round up to the nearest even number. Cast on this number of stitches plus 1 extra stitch for a neat join at the beginning of the round.
Cast-On
Cast on stitches using the long-tail cast-on (crossed cast-on) on 5 mm circular needles. The extra stitch is used for the join and does not count toward the final stitch count.
Joining and Magic Loop
Prepare for magic loop by dividing the stitches into two equal parts on the circular needle. Since you have an extra stitch, the needle not connected to the yarn ball will have one more stitch. Move the extra stitch to the other needle. Then lift the first stitch over the extra stitch and slip it off. Pull the yarn tail. Your work is now joined in the round without a gap, and you have the correct stitch count.
Wrist/Cuff
Knit garter stitch in the round for 20 rounds, or until the cuff reaches the desired length.
Thumb Increases
Round 21: Knit the stitches on the first needle until 1 stitch remains. Make M1R, knit the last stitch, switch needles. Knit 1 stitch, make M1L, knit the remaining stitches.
Knit 1 round without increases. Repeat the increase round one more time. Then knit 1 round in the round. You have now increased a total of 4 stitches.
Thumb Opening
Knit the stitches on the first needle. Turn the work. Slip the first stitch, purl the remaining stitches. Purl the stitches on the next needle. Turn the work. Slip the first stitch, knit the remaining stitches. Repeat these rows until the thumb opening is about 12 rows, or the desired size.
Return to Knitting in the Round
Join the work again and knit garter stitch in the round for 12 rounds, or until the desired length.
Bind-Off – Ruke Bind-Off
Slip the first two stitches to the end of the round. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread the yarn onto a tapestry needle.
Insert the needle through:
- The two slipped stitches + the first stitch of the round.
- Move one step to the left and insert through the last stitch of the two slipped stitches + the first two stitches.
- Pull through the first three stitches and slip off the first stitch.
Continue this way, each time moving one stitch to the left and then slipping off the first stitch.
When two stitches remain:
- Insert through both stitches, slip off one stitch,
- Insert through the last stitch and slip it off.
Turn the mitten inside out and weave in the yarn ends.
Gauge: approx. 16–17 stitches per 10 cm in garter stitch worked in the round on 5 mm needles.
If your work is too tight, go up one needle size.
If it’s too loose, go down one needle size.
Calculating stitch count:
Measure around the wrist where the mitten will sit.
Take the measurement in centimeters and multiply it by 1.6 if you want a snug fit, or by 1.8 if you want a slightly looser fit.
Round up to the nearest even number.
Then add one extra stitch. This extra stitch helps create a neat start when you begin knitting in the round.
Cast-On
Cast on the stitches using the cross cast-on method.
This is a common and sturdy cast-on that works well for mittens.
You’ve cast on one extra stitch than you actually need – it’s only used to create a neat transition when we start knitting in the round.
Preparation
Measure out a sufficiently long piece of yarn. How long it needs to be depends on how many stitches you’re casting on, but it’s better to have it too long than too short.
Make a loop and place it on the needle. Pull both yarn ends so the loop sits snugly.
This counts as your first stitch.
Hold the yarn correctly
3. Wrap the loose yarn around your left thumb. The tail should be on the outside of your thumb.
4. Bring the yarn from the ball over your left index finger, from the palm side out.
5. Hold both yarn ends in your palm with your ring and little fingers. The yarn now forms a “V” shape between your thumb and index finger.
Casting on stitches
6. Insert the right needle from below through the loop around your thumb.
7. Use the needle to catch the yarn from your index finger.
8. Pull the yarn back through the loop around your thumb, forming a new stitch.
9. Release the loop from your thumb and gently tighten the stitch on the needle.
10. Wrap the yarn around your thumb again and repeat the steps until you’ve cast on the desired number of stitches.
Tip: The stitches should sit firmly but not tightly on the needle. If the cast-on feels too tight, start over and make it a little looser.
Prepare for Magic Loop
Magic loop is used to knit in the round even when your project is smaller than the circumference of the circular needle.
- Divide the stitches
Once all stitches are cast on:
• Slide the stitches to the middle of the circular needle.
• Divide them into two equal parts. The needle with the working yarn (from the ball) should have one fewer stitch; the extra stitch goes on the other needle.
• Pull out the cable between the stitches so you have two needle tips free.
Half of the stitches are on each needle. - Hold the needles correctly
Hold the needle with the working yarn in your right hand.
This is always where you start knitting.
The stitches on the other needle are waiting. - The extra stitch (for a neat start)
You’ve cast on an extra stitch.
Move the extra stitch from one needle to the other.
Then lift the first stitch over the extra stitch and drop it off the needle.
Gently pull the yarn tail.
Your work is now joined in a circle without a gap, and you have the correct number of stitches.
Important to remember
• Pull the first stitch on each needle slightly tighter to avoid gaps.
• If it feels tricky – pause, read again, and continue calmly.
Knit in the Round
When knitting in the round for this pattern, you will only work knit stitches.
Here’s how to knit a stitch:
- Insert the right needle from front to back through the stitch.
- Wrap the yarn around the needle.
- Pull the yarn through the stitch.
- Slip the old stitch off the needle.
Knit all the stitches on the needle with the working yarn first.
When the needle is empty: turn the work, pull out the cable, and knit the next needle.
Knit in the round for 20 rounds, or until the wrist section reaches the desired length.
Thumb Increases
Now we’ll make room for the thumb by increasing stitches.
Round 1 (increase round)
Knit until 1 stitch remains on the needle.
Make a right-leaning increase:
- Lift the strand between two stitches from back to front.
- Knit into the lifted strand.
Knit the last stitch and switch needles.
Knit 1 stitch, then make a left-leaning increase: - Lift the strand between two stitches from front to back.
- Knit into the lifted strand.
Knit the remaining stitches.
Round 2
Knit all stitches.
Round 3
Repeat the increase round.
Round 4
Knit all stitches.
You have now increased a total of 4 stitches.
Knit the Thumb Opening (Back and Forth)
Knit the stitches on one needle.
Turn the work.
Slip the first stitch and purl the remaining stitches.
(Purl stitches are worked with the yarn in front of the work.)
Purl the stitches on the next needle and turn again.
Slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches.
Continue working back and forth in this way until the thumb opening is the desired size, about 12 rows.
Return to Knitting in the Round
Now you’ll start knitting in the round again.
Knit all stitches in the round for 12 rounds, or until the mitten covers the fingers as much as you like.
Bind-Off – Ruke Bind-Off
Slip the first two stitches to the end of the round.
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail.
Thread the yarn onto a tapestry needle.
Insert the needle through the first three stitches, pull the yarn through, and slip off the first stitch.
Continue in this way:
- Insert through three stitches
- Pull the yarn through
- Slip off the first stitch
When two stitches remain:
- Insert the needle through both stitches
- Pull the yarn through the last stitch and slip it off
Turn the mitten inside out and weave in the yarn by following the stitches on the back of the work.
Also weave in the yarn tail from the cast-on in the same way.
Knitting Terms
M1R = Right-leaning increase
M1L = Left-leaning increase
Calculating Stitch Count
Measure the circumference of the wrist in centimeters. Multiply by 1.6 for a snug fit, or by 1.8 for a slightly looser fit. Round up to the nearest even number. Cast on this number of stitches plus 1 extra stitch for a neat join at the beginning of the round.
Cast-On
Cast on stitches using the long-tail cast-on (crossed cast-on) on 5 mm circular needles. The extra stitch is used for the join and does not count toward the final stitch count.
Joining and Magic Loop
Prepare for magic loop by dividing the stitches into two equal parts on the circular needle. Since you have an extra stitch, the needle not connected to the yarn ball will have one more stitch. Move the extra stitch to the other needle. Then lift the first stitch over the extra stitch and slip it off. Pull the yarn tail. Your work is now joined in the round without a gap, and you have the correct stitch count.
Wrist/Cuff
Knit garter stitch in the round for 20 rounds, or until the cuff reaches the desired length.
Thumb Increases
Round 21: Knit the stitches on the first needle until 1 stitch remains. Make M1R, knit the last stitch, switch needles. Knit 1 stitch, make M1L, knit the remaining stitches.
Knit 1 round without increases. Repeat the increase round one more time. Then knit 1 round in the round. You have now increased a total of 4 stitches.
Thumb Opening
Knit the stitches on the first needle. Turn the work. Slip the first stitch, purl the remaining stitches. Purl the stitches on the next needle. Turn the work. Slip the first stitch, knit the remaining stitches. Repeat these rows until the thumb opening is about 12 rows, or the desired size.
Return to Knitting in the Round
Join the work again and knit garter stitch in the round for 12 rounds, or until the desired length.
Bind-Off – Ruke Bind-Off
Slip the first two stitches to the end of the round. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread the yarn onto a tapestry needle.
Insert the needle through:
- The two slipped stitches + the first stitch of the round.
- Move one step to the left and insert through the last stitch of the two slipped stitches + the first two stitches.
- Pull through the first three stitches and slip off the first stitch.
Continue this way, each time moving one stitch to the left and then slipping off the first stitch.
When two stitches remain:
- Insert through both stitches, slip off one stitch,
- Insert through the last stitch and slip it off.
Turn the mitten inside out and weave in the yarn ends.
The rights to this pattern belong to MYO Make Your Own. The pattern or its pictures may not be copied, shared or resold either in parts or in its entirety, but you may sell items you have crocheted from this pattern. If you have questions about the pattern, contact MYO at hello@makeyourown.se.
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