Knitted bonnet "Aila"
Knit a trendy bonnet with tie
Knit this fine bonnet in our Dreamy Blend yarn. This hat is fun to make and easy to follow with descriptions, photos and technique videos. In addition to MYO Dreamy Blend, you will need our circular needles 7mm and 5mm (80cm). You will also need a darning needle and possibly needle stoppers and a tape measure. The colorway used in the pattern is Cinnamon.
Yarn Consumption: approximately 70 g of MYO Dreamy Blend. Keep in mind that the yarn consumption may differ depending on how tightly you knit.
Please note that in this tutorial, we use videos from our technique school, along with explanatory images.
This is what you need:
Here you can directly purchase the material for the product. Please note that the instruction is digital and appears here on the page (no written instruction).
MYO Dreamy blend | 50g
A soft blend yarn that consists of 40% cotton, 35% superfine alpaca, and 25% wool.
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Here's how to do it
This fine bonnet is made in MYO's soft and lovely Dreamy blend yarn. The whole bonnet is knitted in simple techniques that are easy to learn. This is a project that is quick to do, while you get to explore different knitting techniques. Here is the material you need: Material~ 2 skeins of Dreamy blend ~ 7mm circular needle 80cm~ 5mm circular needle 80cm~ Needle to weave in yarn ends later ~ stitch holder (or piece of yarn) Good to have: ~ Needle stoppers ~ Measuring tape
Step 1 - Sizing
One Size - fits small/medium, hat size 54/59 cm. To increase the size, add 2 more stitches on step 3. If you want your bonnet longer, add more rows on step 4.
Step 2 - Cast on
We will begin by creating the part on the top of the head. It should be approximately 9-10cm wide when finished.
We're knitting with the yarn held double, grab the end of the yarn from both your skeins.
Start by casting on 10 stitches using long tail cast on. Check out the video, if you need a refresher on the long tail cast on technique. As the cast-on edge is supposed to measure about 10 cm, allow tails from both yarns of approx. 30 cm for your cast on.
At this point, create a slip knot and place it on your working needle.
How to make a slip knot:
Make a loop around your fingers, pull the working yarn through and let the fingerloop tighten around it, creating a new loop. Put the slip knot on your size 7mm needle to start step 2.
How to cast on:
- Hold the needle in your dominant hand, with the end tail of the yarn towards you and the working yarn away from you.
- Hold the yarn with your other hand. Place the working yarn between index and middle fingers, wrap the tail over your thumb and grip both yarn ends firmly in your palm.
- Insert the needle in the thumb loop from below, then raise the needle to grab the yarn on your index finger from above, pull it through the thumb loop and pull the tail slightly to tighten.
- Repeat until you have your preferred amount of stitches on the needle. The slip knot counts as the first stitch.
Step 3 - The top of the head
The next step is to alternate 1 row knit, 1 row purl, i.e. knit stockinette stitch, for a total of 12 rows. Refer to the Stockinette stitch video for additional support, if needed.
The picture shows the finished piece.
Row 1:
Start with a knit row:
- Keep the working yarn on the back of your work.
- Insert the right needle in the first stitch on the left needle.
- Wrap the working yarn around the right needle an pull it through the stitch to form a loop.
- Release the stitch from the left needle, the loop aka the new stitch stays on the right needle.
- Repeat until you reach the end of the row.
Turn your work and purl the next row:
- Keep the working yarn in front of your work.
- Insert the right needle in the first stitch on the left needle.
- Put the working yarn behind the right needle and let the right needle pull it through the stitch to form a loop.
- Release the stitch from the left needle, the loop aka the new stitch stays on the right needle.
- Repeat until you reach the end of the row.
Repeat these two rows for a total of 20 rows. Once youre done, slip your 10 stitches onto a stitch holder or a separate piece of yarn and free the 7 mm needle, you will be needing it to pick up stitches on the side of your top piece.
Step 4 - Pick up stitches
Time to pick up new stitches on the sides of the top piece. The "Pick up stitches along straight edge" video below will show you how.
On the right-hand long side of your top piece, pick up 16 stitches. Then slip the original 10 stitches of the short side back onto the needle to accompany the stitches you just picked up. Using the same needle, proceed to pick up 16 stitches more on the other long side of the piece. You'll now have 42 stitches in total on your needle.
Step 5 - The sides
Time to knit the sides of the bonnet.
Carry on in stockinette, i.e. one row knit, one row purl. Make this part as long as you like, bearing in mind there will be a ribbed edge added to the bottom.
Start on the wrong side ofthe work, with a row of purl. Turn and continue with a knit row. Repeat as many times as needed to obtain suitable length, ending with a knit row.
Mine is a total of 30 rows.
Step 6 - Neck ribbing
Time to knit the ribbed edge, by simply turning the purl rows to the right side of the work.
Change to the 5 mm needle while you knit the first row. Carry onthe same way you didbefore, with one row knit -on row purl. Only do it the other way around: knit your rows on the wrong side, purl your rows on the right side.
Repeat for a total of 6 rows. Cast off
Can't remember how to cast off? Check out the video "Cast off".
- Knit two knit stitches.
- With the tip of the needle, lift the first knit stitch over the second and release off the working needle, the second stitch remains on the working needle.
- Knit another knit stitch and repeat the process, lifting the stitch closest to your hand over the next one and dropping it off the needle.
- Repeat until the end of the row.
- Cut the yarn (leave a little tail) and pull it through the final stitch to lock it.
- Hide the tail within the stitches of your work, e.g. along the edge. A crochet hook or darning needle will come in handy.
This is what it should look like when done:
Step 7 - The rib edge around the face
Once the bottom edge is done, continue with the edge around the face.
Grab your 5 mm needle and pick up stitches around the front edge of the bonnet, the same way you did on the top piece. Pick up evenly, but the amount of picked up stitches is not important. Mine came to 58 stitches.
Knit 6 stockinette rows with the purls facing out, like you did on the bottom.
Finish off by casting off like you did with the bottom edge.
This is what it should look like when done:
Step 8- The ties
Now we will create two ribbon ties that can be tied in a bow when wearing.
With your 5 mm needle, pick up 4 stitches at the bottom front of the bonnet, where you want to attach the tie. Starting on the right side, knit stockinette (1 row knit, 1 row purl) until the tie is the length you desire. Cast off your 4 stitches and repeat the process on the other side.
Step 9- Weaving in ends
Grab a crochet hook or darning needle and weave in your yarn tails in the fabric of your work. The "How to weave in the ends" viedo will show you how in more detail.
Step 10 - Block your bonnet
This is an important step to take before your work is done, which is blocking. You don't have to block, but your finished product will be so much nicer for it. To block an item, you wet it thoroughly all the way into the core of the yarn. Then you squeeze out the excess water and lay your item flat to dry. You might get a decent result by just slightly dampening the item, but the best result is reached by a good long soak for about an hour. Your item might seem sopping wet after just a quick dip, but in order for water to actually penetrate through to the core of the fibre, it needs to soak for longer.
Pros of blocking:
- You'll be able to adjust the size: a piece of clothing can be stretched a little longer or wider
- Patterns will shop up more clearly
- Uneven stitches will relax and even out
How to block:
- Submerge your item in lukewarm water with a tiny drop of wool detergent or hair conditioner added
- Let it soak for about an hour
- Squeeze out as much water as you can - never wring, just squeeze
- Roll your item up in a clean, dry towel and squeeze it some more
- Lay your item out on another dry towel and shape it to your desired shape and size.
- Your finished project is ready to wear, once it's completely dried!
Nice job! We're curious of your finished bonnet, feel free to share it with us on social media :)
Abbreviations
st – stitch
rs – right side
ws – wrong side
rep – repeat
k – knit stitch
p – purl stitch
Top:
- With 7 mm needle, cast on 10 st using long tail cast on.
- Row 1: Knit (k)
- Row 2: Purl (p)
- Rep row 1 and row 2 a total of 10 times: total of 20 rows
- Place st on st holder
- Cut yarn
Pick up st:
- Starting in bottom right corner of work, pick up and k 16 st along the edge
- Transfer 10 live st from holder onto needle
- Pick up andk 16 st down the other edge of the work
42 st in total
Sides:
- Row 1 (ws): p
- Row 2 (rs): k
- Repeat for 30 rows total (stockinette st)
Neck ribbing:
Switch to 5 mm needle
- Row 1 (rs): p
- Row 2 (ws):k
- Rep rows 1 and 2 a total of 6 times
- Cast off
Front edge ribbing:
Using 5 mm needle, pick up and k 58 st evenly along front edge of work
- Row 1 (ws): k
- Rad 2 (rs): p
- Rep rows 1 and 2 a total of 6 times
- Cast off
Ties:
- On rs, using 5mm needle, pick up and k 4 st where you want your tie to attach, on either side
- K stockinette st until tie is desired length
- Cast off
- Repeat on other side.
Weave in ends and block
Step 1 - Sizing
One Size - fits small/medium, hat size 54/59 cm. To increase the size, add 2 more stitches on step 3. If you want your bonnet longer, add more rows on step 4.
Step 2 - Cast on
We will begin by creating the part on the top of the head. It should be approximately 9-10cm wide when finished.
We're knitting with the yarn held double, grab the end of the yarn from both your skeins.
Start by casting on 10 stitches using long tail cast on. Check out the video, if you need a refresher on the long tail cast on technique. As the cast-on edge is supposed to measure about 10 cm, allow tails from both yarns of approx. 30 cm for your cast on.
At this point, create a slip knot and place it on your working needle.
How to make a slip knot:
Make a loop around your fingers, pull the working yarn through and let the fingerloop tighten around it, creating a new loop. Put the slip knot on your size 7mm needle to start step 2.
How to cast on:
- Hold the needle in your dominant hand, with the end tail of the yarn towards you and the working yarn away from you.
- Hold the yarn with your other hand. Place the working yarn between index and middle fingers, wrap the tail over your thumb and grip both yarn ends firmly in your palm.
- Insert the needle in the thumb loop from below, then raise the needle to grab the yarn on your index finger from above, pull it through the thumb loop and pull the tail slightly to tighten.
- Repeat until you have your preferred amount of stitches on the needle. The slip knot counts as the first stitch.
Step 3 - The top of the head
The next step is to alternate 1 row knit, 1 row purl, i.e. knit stockinette stitch, for a total of 12 rows. Refer to the Stockinette stitch video for additional support, if needed.
The picture shows the finished piece.
Row 1:
Start with a knit row:
- Keep the working yarn on the back of your work.
- Insert the right needle in the first stitch on the left needle.
- Wrap the working yarn around the right needle an pull it through the stitch to form a loop.
- Release the stitch from the left needle, the loop aka the new stitch stays on the right needle.
- Repeat until you reach the end of the row.
Turn your work and purl the next row:
- Keep the working yarn in front of your work.
- Insert the right needle in the first stitch on the left needle.
- Put the working yarn behind the right needle and let the right needle pull it through the stitch to form a loop.
- Release the stitch from the left needle, the loop aka the new stitch stays on the right needle.
- Repeat until you reach the end of the row.
Repeat these two rows for a total of 20 rows. Once youre done, slip your 10 stitches onto a stitch holder or a separate piece of yarn and free the 7 mm needle, you will be needing it to pick up stitches on the side of your top piece.
Step 4 - Pick up stitches
Time to pick up new stitches on the sides of the top piece. The "Pick up stitches along straight edge" video below will show you how.
On the right-hand long side of your top piece, pick up 16 stitches. Then slip the original 10 stitches of the short side back onto the needle to accompany the stitches you just picked up. Using the same needle, proceed to pick up 16 stitches more on the other long side of the piece. You'll now have 42 stitches in total on your needle.
Step 5 - The sides
Time to knit the sides of the bonnet.
Carry on in stockinette, i.e. one row knit, one row purl. Make this part as long as you like, bearing in mind there will be a ribbed edge added to the bottom.
Start on the wrong side ofthe work, with a row of purl. Turn and continue with a knit row. Repeat as many times as needed to obtain suitable length, ending with a knit row.
Mine is a total of 30 rows.
Step 6 - Neck ribbing
Time to knit the ribbed edge, by simply turning the purl rows to the right side of the work.
Change to the 5 mm needle while you knit the first row. Carry onthe same way you didbefore, with one row knit -on row purl. Only do it the other way around: knit your rows on the wrong side, purl your rows on the right side.
Repeat for a total of 6 rows. Cast off
Can't remember how to cast off? Check out the video "Cast off".
- Knit two knit stitches.
- With the tip of the needle, lift the first knit stitch over the second and release off the working needle, the second stitch remains on the working needle.
- Knit another knit stitch and repeat the process, lifting the stitch closest to your hand over the next one and dropping it off the needle.
- Repeat until the end of the row.
- Cut the yarn (leave a little tail) and pull it through the final stitch to lock it.
- Hide the tail within the stitches of your work, e.g. along the edge. A crochet hook or darning needle will come in handy.
This is what it should look like when done:
Step 7 - The rib edge around the face
Once the bottom edge is done, continue with the edge around the face.
Grab your 5 mm needle and pick up stitches around the front edge of the bonnet, the same way you did on the top piece. Pick up evenly, but the amount of picked up stitches is not important. Mine came to 58 stitches.
Knit 6 stockinette rows with the purls facing out, like you did on the bottom.
Finish off by casting off like you did with the bottom edge.
This is what it should look like when done:
Step 8- The ties
Now we will create two ribbon ties that can be tied in a bow when wearing.
With your 5 mm needle, pick up 4 stitches at the bottom front of the bonnet, where you want to attach the tie. Starting on the right side, knit stockinette (1 row knit, 1 row purl) until the tie is the length you desire. Cast off your 4 stitches and repeat the process on the other side.
Step 9- Weaving in ends
Grab a crochet hook or darning needle and weave in your yarn tails in the fabric of your work. The "How to weave in the ends" viedo will show you how in more detail.
Step 10 - Block your bonnet
This is an important step to take before your work is done, which is blocking. You don't have to block, but your finished product will be so much nicer for it. To block an item, you wet it thoroughly all the way into the core of the yarn. Then you squeeze out the excess water and lay your item flat to dry. You might get a decent result by just slightly dampening the item, but the best result is reached by a good long soak for about an hour. Your item might seem sopping wet after just a quick dip, but in order for water to actually penetrate through to the core of the fibre, it needs to soak for longer.
Pros of blocking:
- You'll be able to adjust the size: a piece of clothing can be stretched a little longer or wider
- Patterns will shop up more clearly
- Uneven stitches will relax and even out
How to block:
- Submerge your item in lukewarm water with a tiny drop of wool detergent or hair conditioner added
- Let it soak for about an hour
- Squeeze out as much water as you can - never wring, just squeeze
- Roll your item up in a clean, dry towel and squeeze it some more
- Lay your item out on another dry towel and shape it to your desired shape and size.
- Your finished project is ready to wear, once it's completely dried!
Nice job! We're curious of your finished bonnet, feel free to share it with us on social media :)
Abbreviations
st – stitch
rs – right side
ws – wrong side
rep – repeat
k – knit stitch
p – purl stitch
Top:
- With 7 mm needle, cast on 10 st using long tail cast on.
- Row 1: Knit (k)
- Row 2: Purl (p)
- Rep row 1 and row 2 a total of 10 times: total of 20 rows
- Place st on st holder
- Cut yarn
Pick up st:
- Starting in bottom right corner of work, pick up and k 16 st along the edge
- Transfer 10 live st from holder onto needle
- Pick up andk 16 st down the other edge of the work
42 st in total
Sides:
- Row 1 (ws): p
- Row 2 (rs): k
- Repeat for 30 rows total (stockinette st)
Neck ribbing:
Switch to 5 mm needle
- Row 1 (rs): p
- Row 2 (ws):k
- Rep rows 1 and 2 a total of 6 times
- Cast off
Front edge ribbing:
Using 5 mm needle, pick up and k 58 st evenly along front edge of work
- Row 1 (ws): k
- Rad 2 (rs): p
- Rep rows 1 and 2 a total of 6 times
- Cast off
Ties:
- On rs, using 5mm needle, pick up and k 4 st where you want your tie to attach, on either side
- K stockinette st until tie is desired length
- Cast off
- Repeat on other side.
Weave in ends and block
The rights to this pattern belong to MYO Make Your Own. The pattern or its pictures may not be copied, shared or resold either in parts or in its entirety, but you may sell items you have crocheted from this pattern. If you have questions about the pattern, contact MYO at hello@makeyourown.se.
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